Christopher Bailey, the young designer responsible for infusing Burberry with modern coolness, says he is "very enthusiastic for the new year" and the positive mood is very much reflected in his upcoming collection. "It's about looking at your history and understanding who you are and what you are about." Bailey's "modern optimism" for design matches the growth the company is currently experiencing: in addition to a new watch collection, the company is also engaged in retail expansion, including a new store in Milan which is slated to open next Fall in Via Verri. Bailey will stage his Prorsum show (Burberry's more experiential line) in the antiquated Milanese palace, Palazzo Barozzi on Sunday afternoon.

Milan veteran Giorgio Armani, one of the few to emerge financially unscathed from 2002, continues to plow forward into the new year with enthusiasm. Foremost on the designer's mind is the global expansion of his retail business, which continues with forthcoming openings for Armani Casa and Emporio Armani. During fashion week, Armani and GQ will host a private cocktail party in his Via Manzoni store to inaugurate the exhibit "Athlete" by photographer Howard Schatz.

But for this season's show, the main label, Emporio Armani, and the Armani Jeans collections will be presented successively in the super sleek Armani Theatre in Via Bergognone. The designer, who isn't one to shy away from the buzz of a celebrity-packed front row, will once again host several Italian and international stars (still confidential at this point) to get the gossip wheels in motion.

Like Armani, Donatella Versace, herself no stranger to a high profile audience, will show both the Versace and Versus shows back to back in her palazzo in Via Gesu. The shows, which will have big name attendance (though also currently top secret), are followed by the traditional after party in the palazzo, complete with buffet dinner and a guest-star DJ spinning tunes until all hours of the night.

Ennio Capasa of Costume National, who will maintain his regular noon slot on opening day, says, "I feel really excited for this collection and this coming year. I feel a maturity in my hand and in my brain and the energy is really coming to me." Capasa, who has been busy with the launch of his new fragrance line, Scent, and the recent opening of a Paris boutique, continues on his roll with the launch of a brand new eyewear collection this month. The company's philosophy of authenticity and intimacy mandated that the celebration for the eyewear - a dinner and party in their showroom - be small and exclusive. "At this moment, personal relationships with people are most important, it needs to feel special," says Capasa. Alternative-chic friends, JT Leroy, Vincent Gallo and Steven and Liv Tyler are expected to attend the event with British DJ Paul Davies in the company's showroom Monday night.

Not everyone has the pull or the purse strings to attract A-list celebs, but most designers still recognize the importance of setting themselves apart and getting people talking during fashion week. Kean Etro's philosophy for Etro is to use what he calls "custom-tailored communication." The designer explains, "In this very media focused moment, there is a need for less mediation and more direct relations." So following last season's ox-drawn cart parade in via Montenapoleone, the company continues its out-of-the-box thinking by staging its men's show aboard antique trains. Both models and guests will take off from Milan's Porta Genova station on Sunday.

Since some companies are relying on new strategies this year to boost sales and get focused, this season's men's shows will be more about showcasing an improved product, rather than making a mark with parties and puffed up presentations. Bally, the Swiss luxury leather goods company that has recently updated their look with new designer Luca Ragonese, has put its eye back on product after a period of image initiatives. CEO Marco Franchini, the manager responsible for re-shaping the brand's future, says, "We are very excited about our upcoming men's show and it will be an important step forward for the creative strategy established and the development of the brand." The company has a new showroom in Via San Rocco where Franchini says "an intimate and luxurious" show will take place.

Under the tutelage of new CEO Enrico Mambelli, the house of Gianfranco Ferré is also heading into 2003 with ambitious new plans to revamp its image and strengthen its youth appeal. Renovations of such key stores as Via S. Andrea in Milan and Avenue Montaigne in Paris, and several new boutique openings in 2003-4 will update the style and clearly define Ferré's revised product lines. Already a proven master at women's haute couture, Ferré is now jumping into the made-to-measure arena for men, introducing custom made suits and shoes. A preview of the pieces will be featured on the runway on Wednesday in Via Pontaccio. With the changes, the designer says, "I'm happy. I feel inspired and motivated. All these new projects allow me to emphasize quality and to develop a more accessible luxury."

Jil Sander designer Milan Vukmirovic says that this season he is inspired by "the world of music and the special elegance of rock looks." Given today's climate, the idea is to make "an aggressive statement to confront the difficult, uncertain future." Following the opening of flagship stores in London and New York last year, the company continues its efforts to strengthen the brand. From a design standpoint, Vukmirovic is making a concerted effort at expanding pieces and styles in his collection saying, "an element of fun is becoming important."

For Milan's smaller labels, fashion week is a time to shine for the international press and retailers who descend on the city. Dsquared, the hot label designed by twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten, is sure to create a buzz after their fashion show and expected blowout party Tuesday night at the disco Alcatraz, where 3,000 guests are expected to attend. The label, which is backed by Diesel's Renzo Rosso, has announced the launch of a full-blown women's collection, which will debut Feb. 27th in Milan.

Neil Barrett, who is small and self-financed, doesn't have the budget for big-ticket parties, but the designer remains non-plussed: "In a challenging market you really need to produce a great product. You've got to stand out and be distinctive and that's what I do. I let the clothes speak for themselves." Barrett will continue to collaborate with Puma for footwear in the collection he is presenting on Tuesday night.

Sandy Dalal, the 26-year-old American designer who is returning to Milan after a brief hiatus in New York, expressed similar sentiments. "We're very small, but people come to us for what we do. I do what I do, nothing else." But being in Milan is a thrill for Dalal who says that the city "gives us great exposure. The pace is much stronger here than in New York for menswear."

And the influx of newcomers to the Milan show schedule this season agree, especially hip Scottish knitwear company Pringle, which made its runway debut last October in London during women's fashion week. Other newcomers returning to Italy's fashion capital after show stints in other cities are Swedish designer Johan Lindeberg, who creates the J. Lindeberg line, and Marithe e Francois Girbaud, who plan to open a store in Milan shortly.

Despite all the hoopla, there are some companies who will skip show business all together this season. Undoubtedly influenced by the top dollar investment, big name designers such as Calvin Klein, Missoni and Strenesse have decided against full blown shows and will instead present their men's collections in informal showroom settings. Both Missoni and Strenesse are hosting private dinners to entertain special guests, but Alessandro dell'Acqua has opted out of menswear all together this season, having temporarily suspended the line so the designer can spend more time with his women's collection as well as with his other design commitments for Borbonese and La Perla.

The five days of fashion shows in Milan begin Sunday, January 12th at 12 p.m. and continue through the evening of Thursday, January 16.