PARIS, Jan 24, 2003/ FW/ --- The invitations for the Nicolas Le Cauchois show were printed on thick white paper, encrusted in relief, with a motif worthy of Lalique crystal.

So, it was not at all surprising that the exquisite all-white collection of Haute Couture for Spring / Summer 2003 would reach the same level of artistry as the opalescent designs found at the crystal maker's famous address on Rue Royale.

From an aesthetic standpoint, the show was one of the finest of the week, and a welcome reversal to the gaudy display offered by Scherrer moments before. The runway was arranged with topiary-boulders, distributed unevenly.

Metaphorically speaking, one could say that they represented the omnipresent obstacles in the path of a rising fashion star. But then again, the truly talented will always find a way around the pitfalls, just as the models in the show did this afternoon.

Billowing smoke formed a haze, while subdued lighting in midnight blue conjured up the image of Stonehenge at witching hour. It seemed at first as if druids or spirits were floating up out of the mist.

To the sound of harp glissandos, scalloped tailcoats, mousseline dresses trailed by golden strands and silvery satin skirts materialized on the stony plain.

At times the look was deconstructed, at times layered, at times voluptuous, but always inherently elegant.

One lace skirt was sewn so discreetly with sequins that it glistened like dew.

One satin evening dress cascaded with crystal, while another leather top was pealed back like petals and spread with a fine moss of black silk. Elsewhere, crystal brocade or clusters of sparkling mousse ornamented the entirely white collection, broken only by an occasional black skirt.

The wedding dress, a stunning creation with a top in the shape of a swan sprayed a trail of featherweight plumes.

The collection was as much high art as it was high fashion, and that is the characteristic that links Nicolas Le Cauchois so closely in spirit with say, Yves Saint Laurent or Hubert de Givenchy.

On Tuesday night, Julien McDonald desperately tried to avoid the guillotine by hiding behind the skirts of Audrey Hepburn, but on Wednesday, Nicolas Le Cauchois put out an elegant collection that Ms. Hepburn would have been proud to wear.

Backstage Nicolas told FW, "There was no particular source of inspiration for the collection aside from the challenge of doing something in all white. Of course, my true inspiration is my 3 month old son."

Since the talk in Paris has now moved from acknowledging the seemingly inevitable ousting of McDonald, to predicting his successor, let me offer my own suggestion to the powers of LVMH. Nicolas Le Cauchois is probably the only person, after Hedi Slimane, who could save Givenchy.

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Nicolas Le Cauchois