NEW YORK, May 1, 2002/ --- In the latest example of a historically special relationship, Britain's fashion leaders have agreed in principle to move the London fashion season ahead of the New York shows next season, ensuring that no runway presentations will be staged in Manhattan on September 11.

Since 1998, New York Fashion Week has kicked off the fall international season, followed by London, Milan and Paris.

However, in an extraordinary gesture, London will open the season this time, followed by New York, Milan and Paris.

"No final plan has been decided in London. However, given the exceptional circumstances, we will do everything in our power to help New York," Nicholas Coleridge, chairman of the British Fashion Council and managing director of Conde Nast UK, told FWD.

The elegant gesture from the London fashion camp was apparently brokered by Anna Wintour, the British-born editor-in-chief of American Vogue, who personally lobbied British designers and industry leaders to make the change possible.

According to Fern Mallis, director of 7th on Sixth, Mayor Bloomberg's office has specifically requested that New York Fashion Week events not fall on September 11.

Coleridge stressed that any change in dates would be a unique "one-time" agreement though, and that London would revert to its traditional position on the international calendar for the following season.

Although he does not attend the London shows himself, Bloomingdale's fashion director Kal Ruttenstein was pleased when apprised of the news Tuesday.

"How very gracious of London," he commented.

The news, however, provoked confusion in Continental fashion circles, as the revamped New York schedule now overlaps with Milan's current dates.

Well-informed sources predict that the six-day London season will begin on Thursday, September 12 and end on Tuesday, September 17.

As a result, New York Fashion Week would then run from Wednesday, September 18 through to Tuesday, September 24.

The Milan season is currently scheduled to begin on Sunday, September 22 and wrap up on Tuesday, October 1.

New York Fashion Week's two-day overlap with the Milan shows could be doable for much of the fashion flock though, as major labels usually show during the second half of the 10-day Milan season, and buyers and editors tend to miss the opening days in Milan.

In New York today, Mallis would not offer specifics on the impending changes.

"There is a plan afoot," she explained. "But we are waiting for all participating parties to sign off."

When asked if she has been in contact with Mario Boselli, president of the Camera della Moda, Italian fashion's governing body, or Didier Grumbach of Paris' Chambre Syndicale, she assured us, "we are talking to everyone that we need to be talking to."

Boselli, however, told FWD that he was not notified of the potential London/New York switcheroo until today.

"In principle, we'd like to do all we can to help our American colleagues given last year's events," he said.

"However, we just got an email from La Mallis, dated midnight last night, so all of this is very sudden."

The Camera president stressed that there are over 200 collections presented in Milan. Moving dates back presents major logistical problems, he says, especially as many shows are staged in the Fiera, a heavily-booked Milan trade show center.

Boselli also noted that with most Italians taking a five-day "bridge" holiday this week, starting with Wednesday's Labor Day (a national holiday throughout much of Europe), the earliest possible day he could respond to the American request would be Monday.

In France, French fashion majordomo Grumbach said he was entirely unaware of the recent developments.

The nine-day French season is currently scheduled to open on Thursday, October 3. Any attempt to push the Milan season back two or three days, Grumbach insisted, would severely disrupt the French show calendar.

"Nobody has called us. We understand this is a unique situation, but quite frankly it's a little ridiculous to ask us to change dates this late. Over here, fashion seasons are prepared a very long way in advance " said Grumbach.

He also noted that major names like Christian Dior, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons are among the houses due to show on Paris' opening day.