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Paris' New Crop of Designers
Orlann, Giovanni Bedin, Robert Beaulieu
Paris Fashion Week Fall 2003
By Timothy Hagy

PARIS, Apr 9, 2003/ FW/ -- Paris Fashion Week might be over, but it does not mean that the design houses in Paris are on hiatus.

The Hôtel Bristol on the rue du Faubourg St. Honoré was the setting for a multibrand presentation of Fall 2003 collections on April 1. But this was no April Fool's joke, as some of the finest pieces seen in Paris this season were unveiled to the press.

Orlann, a young French woman and assistant to Jean-Paul Knott, designed a largely black and white collection notable for its simplicity and practicality. Pleated asymmetrical skirts at times took on a deconstructed look, while pants, jackets and vests were decorated with leather and attached with steamers. For accessories, a half moon sack and belts sprouting stems gave a fresh, clean look.

Giovanni Bedin, a young Italian and former assistant to Karl Lagerfeld, now designs for the House of Worth as well as in his own name. His eponymous collection of pleated mousseline evening dresses, flowing slacks and black mink trimmed capes left no doubt as to his inherently elegant touch. With his show during Paris fashion week cancelled, the sneak peak offered this week gave a tantalizing glimpse of his talent.

Despite the pleas of PETA, fur is in, as was clearly evidenced by the work of Frenchman Robert Beaulieu, who also works for Louis Vuitton. Sumptuous white mink coats, panchos of knitted black and white mink trimmed in fine leather, as well as silver fox vests decorated with leather streamers were just a few of the highlights from his autumnal collection. The range of exquisite furs also includes hooded jackets in two toned rust and white mink, and even aviator caps.

Saga Furs offered its own collection of stoles in fox and mink, striking not only for the quality of the pelts but for the range of colors as well. Pink, violet turquoise and forest green were among the choices of tint.


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