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Arrivals and Departures: Torrente, Nina Ricci & Givenchy?
Paris Fashion Week Fall 2003
By Timothy Hagy and Mari Davis

PARIS, Feb 28, 2003/ FW/ --- One week before the Paris Ready-to-Wear shows are scheduled to open, the doors of several distinguished fashion houses are revolving.

Rose Mett, also known as Torrente-Mett is leaving the house of Torrente after 34 years as Artistic Director, while ceding control of her holdings to the Chammas Group, a stockholder since 1985. At age 70, Ms. Mett wants to spend more time with her family.

Rose began her career in 1971, three years after the founding of Torrente Haute Couture, and was the only French woman to head a major couture house. She is noted for her intuition, energy and combativeness, and is distinguished for having put her all into her passion, Haute Couture.

A restructuring plan is now in place, forcing Torrente to cancel the runway show previously scheduled to open the Paris Ready-to-Wear season on March 6.

At Nina Ricci, a new CEO, Paul Deneuve, formerly of Corrèges is scheduled to take over the reins from Marc Puig in May of 2003.

But the news likely to be the most captivating is also the most elusive.

A rumor that ignited in December, then died down during the Haute Couture season has recently exploded again. It concerns a new Artistic Director for Givenchy, where incumbent Julien McDonald is expected to be ousted.

Last January, the rumor was that Hedi Slimane would replace Julien Macdonald. The latest whisperings have added Ozwald Boateng to the short list.

Slimane, currently in charge of Dior Homme, is the presumed favorite, though there has been no comment from the Dior press office.

Nonetheless, informed sources have suggested to Fashion Windows that Hedi has little interest in moving to Givenchy (which is also owned by LVMH), especially as his true passion remains Dior Homme.

As for Mr. Boateng, he is currently in South Africa, and could not be reached for comment.

A London designer, known for his bespoke clothing, Ozwald Boateng captivated the recent Paris men's shows held last January with his "The Beginning of Time" collection inspired by the ancient civilizations of China and Japan put into a modern context.

Though Boateng does not presently design a women's collection, he is set to release a new women's perfume and the buzz is that he is opening a New York flagship store this year.

Last January, during the Haute Couture season when the first whispers of Macdonald's imminent dismissal from Givenchy were heard, Givenchy President Mariane Tesler firmly refuted the rumor.

When FW called the office of Julien Macdonald, a company spokesperson again firmly denied the rumor, insisting that Macdonald is staying at Givenchy. Mr. Macdonald's current contract ends in 2004.

And so once again, Julien Macdonald is handling this uninvited attention with aplomb - by keeping quiet. Now, that is what you call 'true grit' as we say here in Texas which means 'showing real courage against all odds.' And that compliment is never given lightly by someone from the Lone Star State.

Torrente Rosette Torrente-Mett on the runway Spring 2003
Photo by Javier Mateo

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