Trendspotting: Paris Prêt-á-Porter Fall 2004
Paris Prêt-á-Porter Fall 2004
By Mari Davis
[Photos: From top to bottom - (1)Alexander McQueen (2)Paco Rabanne (3)Emanuel Ungaro (4)Sharon Wauchob (5)Christian Lacroix (6)Chanel.
Photos by Javier Mateo
Click on image to see bigger photo.
DALLAS, Apr 19, 2004/ FW/ --- Last March in Paris, the women’s ready-to-wear collections was very diverse, derived from a wide variety of inspirations. Designers went romantic, futuristic, even mannish at times, resulting to a very lively season and one of the best seen in the past several years.
Futuristic
Alexander McQueen and Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake look into the future for inspiration. From sci-fi/fantasy to the colonization of the moon were seen on their runways, yet the looks are definitely planted on earth. ET does not phone home anymore. ET sends text messages! In short, the future is now, in the eyes of Alexander McQueen and Naoki Takizawa.
Techo, Metallic and Glitter
Corollary to being futuristic is the techno look, which uses high tech fabrics and silver dusted cloths, even some unconventional materials. Spearheads of these looks are Rosemarie Rodriguez for Paco Rabanne, Costume National, Barbara Bui, and Haider Ackermann.
Let it be said that metallic and glitter in terms of jewels and crystals encrusted in the clothes is part of this trend, although the look is totally romantic instead of techno.
Romance
If there is a big trend in Paris, its romance, with most of the houses including Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Lacroix, John Galliano, and Givenchy mining historical figures and people for inspiration.
From the courts of Marie Antoinette to the nomadic people of the desert, from old Hollywood to the highlands of Scotland, designers brought to life people and places of a bygone era that are still dear to our hearts.
The looks are familiar, yet entirely new; the looks were updated for the 21st century lady.
Ruffles & Layering
It was ruffles here, ruffles there and ruffles everywhere as part of the romantic trend.
Seen on the runways of Alexander Herchovitch, Bruno Pieters, Dior, Emanuel Ungaro, and Givenchy.
Even Sharon Wauchob, one of the big proponents of alternative fashion sent layers of leather or chiffon the runway, and tiny ruffles embellishing blouses and dresses.
Hollywood Glamour and Pop Culture
Some designers such as Andrew Gn, Christophe Lebourg for Balmain, Cacharel, Dice Kayek, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Torrente, Valentino and John Galliano for Christian Dior looked brought back the romance and glamour of old Hollywood and pop culture, giving it a new take.
Some of the looks are innovative and trailblazing such as Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s “handkerchief dress” featuring photos of fashion personalities such as Tom Ford and Hedi Slimane.
John Galliano’s Teddy girls and Flapper ladies mixed the 1920s and London’s 1950s, bringing the youth culture on the forefront of fashion once again.
Fur & Shearlings
This might sound politically incorrect to some, but furs will be big this coming fall. Almost all the houses presented fur --- from a full mink coat to trims on collars or sleeves.
Notable looks were seen at Balenciaga by Nicholas Ghesquière, Balmain, Barbara Bui, Christian Lacroix, Costume National, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton
Mannish Clothing & Urban Wear
One surprising trend in Paris is the use of mannish clothing, and the rise of hip-hop and urban wear to the mainstream.
The look was best seen at Chanel, Helmut Lang, Lagerfeld Gallery and Marithé + François Girbaud.
Even Collette Dinnigan, known for her barely-there outerwear, which is based on lingerie sent power clothes on the runway with a definitely manliness in it.
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