Daily Blog: Paris Menswear Show January 23, 2004
Julien Macdonald Says "Au Revoir" to Givenchy
Paris Menswear Show Fall 2004
By Mari Davis
(Photo below: Julien Macdonald on the runway, Fall 2002. Photo by
Javier Mateo.)
PARIS, Jan 23, 2004/ FW/ --- Today might be the first day of the Menswear season in Paris, but the biggest news was Julien Macdonald’s announcement that he is leaving Givenchy.
In an interview by French cable television Paris Premiere last Wednesday, one day after he showed his best collection for Givenchy where both the fashion press and haute couture agreed, the current Artistic Director of the venerable fashion house said, “I have learned a lot and, as you say in Paris, au revoir."
The interview, which was in French, was translated into English, and the transcript also said, "I have learned a lot here and I appreciate every moment I spent at Givenchy," adding that he is not sure if he would show a last ready-to-wear collection in March.
Macdonald’s tenure at Givenchy since his appointment since 2001, has been tumultuous, with all of his collections getting uneven reviews, except for the current Haute Couture Spring 2004 season which everyone had commented as “his best one” for the House.
According to a Reuters report, Macdonald’s Spring 2004 haute couture collection “triggered a flood of orders from clients as far away as Japan and Brazil.”
This is so different from his first haute couture collection, which, according to rumors, not one piece was sold.
The House of Givenchy is one of the best known in Paris, its heydays was in the 1950s and 1960s when its founder, Hubert de Givenchy was at its helm.
It became a household word in the U.S. when Audrey Hepburn exclusively worn Givenchy creations in the movie, “Breakfast At Tiffany’s.”
Hubert de Givenchy retired in 1995, and the House, which is now a part of the LVMH stable, had been under the design direction of John Galliano (who now designs for Dior and under his own label) and Alexander McQueen, who currently designs under his own label.
Julien Macdonald’s appointment in Givenchy in 2001 surprised the fashion pundits, some saying that his style is “too brash” and goes against Givenchy’s hallmark, which emphasized the silhouette rather than embellishments.
Last year, right before the January haute couture season started, rumors were rife in Paris that Macdonald was leaving Givenchy, with Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme and Ozwald Boateng, who was just appointed designer of Givenchy Homme, as possible replacements.
The rumors were so rampart during that time, that LVMH had to make an official statement saying that Julien Macdonald was staying.
As for this latest development, no official statement from either Givenchy or LVMH has been released.
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