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Daily Blog: Paris Pręt-á-Porter Spring 2004
Paris Fashion Week Fall 2003
By Mari Davis
(Photo from Andrew Gn Spring 2004 collection by Javier Mateo)
New Talents Are Highlighted
PARIS, Tuesday, Oct 7, 2003 --- In an unprecedented move, the Chambre Syndicale du Pret-a-Porter, the branch of French fashion governing body for ready-to-wear, dedicated the first day of the fashion season to emerging designers.
The official calendar roster included Isabelle Ballu, Isabel Marant, Dice Kayek, Marc Le Bihan, Alexander Mathiu, Sharon Wauchob, Haider Ackerman, Gaspard Yurkievich, Andrew Gn, Mispleare, AF Vandervost and Bernad Wilhelm.
The ‘off-calendar’ list included Enzu Van, Ohya and Haseltine.
These names are already familiar with editors and photographers covering the international fashion season, but still virtually unknown to the rest of the fashionista set.
The mad rush started at 9:30 AM with Isabelle Ballu’s show at the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux Arts, and ended at 8:30 PM with Bernard Willhelm’s show at the Palais de Tokyo.
With all shows running late as usual, the international fashion press was not able to rest their weary feet until almost 10:00 PM.
This brilliant move by the French fashion federation proved to be a gold strike for the young designers. All shows were filled to capacity, with most of them having part of the audience in the standing room only section.
Though the high-powered editors were nowhere in sight during the first ‘official’ day of the Paris ready-to-wear season, the interest from the retail buyers were high. Bon Marche and Neiman Marcus sent big groups of buyers, judging from the reserved seats at the shows.
Influential WWD editors were also at the shows, together with a lot of editors and correspondents from print and online publications. Television crew and wire services photographers were also seen at the shows.
With the U.S. economy on the upturn, and hopefully, the rest of the world will follow suit, Spring 2004 might prove to be a turning point for these emerging designers who generally showed strong collections today.
Dice Kayek, Andrew Gn and Mispleare stood out among the rest, presenting very artistic and commercially viable collections as a whole.
Dice Kayek went for the youth market with her wide-legged cargo pants and body-hugging pedal pushers.
Andrew Gn went for sensuous and alluring looks, which could be worn by women from 18-55.
Mispleare’s tailored and geometric creations oozed with sophisticated and modern elegance.
It is a win-win situation for the Paris season – a win for the emerging designers in terms of exposure and a win for the French fashion federation in their continued support for young designers.
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