PARIS, Oct 10, 2004/ FW/ --- This week, Givenchy opted for a static presentation instead of a catwalk show, the main reason being the venerable Paris fashion house is still in search of a new womenswear Artistic Director. And though rumors abound that it would either be Sophia Kokosalaki or design duo Viktor & Rolf who will ascend to that exalted position, the truth is that there has been no official announcement from the House of Givenchy or LVMH.

Though the founder of the house, Hubert de Givenchy has been retired from the fashion world since the early 1990s, the “Givenchy mystique” that has made him the favorite couturier of the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O has eluded the current crop of designers.

The original "enfant terrible" of Paris haute couture, his debut haute couture collection in 1952 consisted of separates, a classic design today, but unheard of during the 1950s. He emphasized the silhouette rather than embellishments, a revolutionary idea in itself.

His name became a household word in the U.S. when he dressed Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 film, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” still considered one of the most beloved films of all times.

Hubert de Givenchy himself is a living legend, and the women who wore his creations are also legendary for their beauty and elegance. Quite a hard act to follow, no matter how you put it.

Two of today’s most brilliant designers, (which by the way are also personal favorites of mine), Alexander McQueen and John Galliano did stints at Givenchy. Their design geniuses shone through, yet the Givenchy mystique eluded them at a certain level.

Somehow, they could not put a finger on the pulse of the house. It’s not to say that they did not do very well. In fact, both McQueen and Galliano revitalized the house. Yet certain magic was missing, something that is very hard to put your finger on, which I call the “Givenchy mystique,” for lack of a better word.

Ozwald Boateng, the current Artistic Director of Givenchy Homme said after his successful debut collection, “It is about a feeling of Givenchy, an atmosphere,” and if I may add, it’s about an impression and tone.

Ozwald Boateng is in a unique position though. There is no ‘history’ associated with Givenchy Homme. Yet, like the womenswear Artistic Directors before him, expectations on him are very high, which he passed with flying colors.

John Galliano and Alexander McQueen during their stint at Givenchy also met and at times, exceeded the high expectations. And to reiterate, both designers did revitalize the house. Yet, in the end, they were haunted by the beauty and glamour of Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy, and the Givenchy mystique.

So, it came to pass that these two design geniuses left the house; Galliano went to Dior while McQueen concentrated in his own label. Both of them were more than successful; “they aced it” to use an American vernacular.

Today, the House of Givenchy is once again bereft of an Artistic Director for its womenswear and haute couture. And while the powers that be in both Givenchy and LVMH are looking, this writer humbly suggests, maybe it is time to give back the House to a French designer!

The idea makes sense. Hubert de Givenchy is French and chances are the mystique he created in the label came from being French. If we follow the logic, a French designer trained in France can very well capture that magic again.

Julien Fournié, formerly of Torrente and trained under Jean Paul Gaultier can easily fit the bill. French by birth and trained at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale Couture Parisienne, Julien Fournié embodies the talents of the new breed of French designers coming into the scene.

His last haute couture collection at Torrente was thought provoking, sensual and very French!

Maybe that is what the House of Givenchy needs at this time, a French eye for a French house.