PARIS, Jul 2, 2004/ FW/ --- Ten looks, ten models, ten minutes to impress. That’s all that was needed by young French designer Pierre-Henri MATTOUT (PHM) to impress the crowd of assembled fashion journalists.

Showing his “Hyannis Port” collection in his newly renovated office, PHM brought back the freshness of the American East Coast fashion that was once epitomized by the Kennedy clan during the 1960s. His collection is an exercise in elegance and refined taste in clean sportswear.

His jackets are very classic but embellished with little detailing that gives each one its own individual personality.

The money-maker from this collection and that should go over very well with retailers is his jacket in beige jacket. It actually looks like a trench coat that has been carefully cropped just below the waist. It really is the pick of the litter!

His beige trousers remind of military officer’s pants, with their wide waist band. The shorts and white blazer are light and easygoing. And on that note, PHM is keeping in step with an early trend rising from the first day of shows.

Generally, French designers tend to stay away from shorts in men’s collections. However, if today is any indicator of things to come, shorts will finally become fully acceptable to the French in the near future.

As always, his polo shirts are cut in mercerised jersey. They are graphic with contrasting finishing and have patchworks instead of the all too classic rugby stripes.

PHM created a very interesting look which features gray shorts with two little buckles worn with a gray T-shirt. A pyjama top was worn tucked in. I admit to having thought the pyjama was a great shirt. Very cool look.

Younger designers in Pierre-Henri Mattout’s class would have been intimated or even afraid to show their collection after those of the heavyweight designers Sonia Rykiel, Jean-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano. Not PHM! His talent always attracts the attention of some of the industry’s most important journalists and buyers.

According to PHM, this collection is continuity linked to his previous spring collection and the last winter collection shown in January. Well, if that is indeed the case, I can predict continuity for his rising sales and distribution points thanks to this most intelligent collection.