PARIS, Feb 26, 2006/ FW/ --- With the show calendar pitching Russian designer Igor Chapurin hot on the heels of another of his compatriots, proceedings here in Paris seemed to take on a distinctly eastern European feel this afternoon. In fact the severe looking leggy blondes that appeared on the runway were largely outnumbered by those who took their place in the audience.

Chapurin is a designer who apparently likes giving his collections a theme and this was no exception with attention fixed on the fall of the Russian Empire, or more precisely, on Anastasia, daughter of the last Tsar. It was interesting to note however among the chandeliers, opulently painted ceilings and gilt covered Corinthian capitals of the Hotel Westin’s salon that it was just this sort of decadence that brought about the revolution in the first place.

Politics aside, the only thing that marked the collection’s origins really was the quantity of fur. There was lots of it but we were spared clichéd representations of folksy peasant gear and the show was much better for it.

Silhouettes were generally slim but somehow modest with their closed necklines and military influences. Pencil skirts dominated below waistlines which were drawn high and combined with simple blousons or tailored jackets. Colors were sombre; black, white, pale silver and prune being predominant.

Detailing was reserved for the sleeve or, a common theme recently, the shoulder. We saw short sleeves finished off with lace, sleeves gathered into pleats at the shoulder and discreet shoulder flaps which were slung back to form what appeared to be mini capes. A black crêpe dress meanwhile was ornamented by machine like tone-on-tone zigzagged appliqués. This was, according to the programme notes, a reference to post-revolutionary artistic constructivism but really just served as a good example of why one shouldn’t read the programme notes.

While the collection could have risked to descend into ostentation, this was largely avoided: the opening exit of a white fur coat, short of sleeve and of hemline, slender black stocking legs and elbow length leather gloves protruding from its puffy mass was as close as we came to flamboyance. Even here the effect was sexy rather than trashy.

In a city where most Russian visitors seem to feel the need to apply six inch heels and copious amounts of red lipstick just to buy the groceries, Chapurin’s restraint makes him a welcomed ambassador for his country.

Press Contact
2e BUREAU
Contact: Sylvie GRUMBACH
13 rue D'Aboukir
75002 Paris
FRANCE
Tel: +33 (1) 42 33 93 18
Fax: +33 (1) 40 26 43 53