Supporting Emerging Design Talents
Daily Blog: Sunday, Oct 2, 2005
Paris Pręt-a-Porter (Paris Women's Ready-to-Wear) Spring 2006
By: Mari Davis
PARIS, Oct 2, 2005/ FW/ ---- With the first two days of the Paris season dominated by young designers and the last day also doing the same, the Chamber Syndicale, France’s fashion governing body continues its support for emerging talents.
With Yohji Yamamoto and Viktor & Rolf showing during the first two days, they insured that photographers and writers will be in the city during the opening of the season.
As already have been discussed here, the 5-week international fashion season is a grueling schedule. A lot of photographers and journalists, out of sheer exhaustion skip the first day or two of the shows, which is understandably so simply because the human body cannot run on adrenaline forever. One has to rest sometime.
Yet, with the subtle change in the Paris schedule, there is a bigger contingency of the fashion press on the first day of the shows than usual. And this is good news for the young designers because that means they will get more press coverage.
Unbeknown to many, there is a hierarchy among designers and design houses borne out of being years in the business, and in a lot of ways, popularity.
Here in Paris, houses like Chanel, Dior, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton more often than not get the ‘date’ on the calendar they want to show. The reason – they have been ‘around forever’ in fashion terms.
Call it seniority if you want to because in a lot of ways, that plays a big part in the decision-making. These houses have a ‘historical’ time slot on the calendar, much the same way that your favorite TV show has.
For those who follow UPN’s ‘America’s Next Top Model,’ fans know that it is on at 8:00 PM Eastern/Pacific on Wednesdays.
The fashion calendar works similarly, but of course not as cheesy as ‘8PM Eastern/7PM Central’ as sound bites on television.
There are other factors to consider such, as the venue of the show will be available on the time and date chosen.
With that said, emerging designers who are just breaking into the business has to observe the ‘historical dates’ of the established fashion houses, and then choose accordingly on the calendar on which they think is the best time for them to hold their shows.
The Chamber Syndicale historically supports young designers. Didier Grumbach, President of the Federation has been quoted saying, “John Galliano was an emerging designer once, look at him now. If he did not get any support in the early years of his career, we would have missed a design genius.”
And rightly so! Because at one point in time, even design greats like Alexander McQueen and Alber Elbaz were ‘beginners.’ If they were not given a break in the beginning of their careers, then the fashion world would have missed design geniuses as Mr. Grumbach had surmised.
So, although the subtle change in the fashion calendar meant the fashion press missed a much-needed one-day rest in between Paris and Milan, the effect was for a greater good. Because who knows, among this crop of young designers, we might find the next Yves Saint Laurent!
|