After three years of declining sales, many stores are filling formerly masculine display space with increased women's lines in hopes of luring back shoppers.

It would appear that the current trend of men taking charge of their own wardrobe has become a two-edged sword, since in so doing, they are buying significantly less than did their moms or girlfriends.

With closets already brimming with chinos and suits, and without any fresh incentive, many men have turned their attention elsewhere.

As Milan continues to be the commercial lion of the industry, Paris remains the trendsetter, with at least three designers, Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Helmut Lang driving innovation in a tradition fixed by rigid codes.

Just last Thursday, Donald Potard, President of Jean-Paul Gaultier Couture, appeared at an awards ceremony sporting an innovative black suit with chains dangling discreetly from both sleeves. American rock star Casey Spooner chose a Dior Homme Napoleonic era tailcoat hand-embroidered with ebony sequins for his spring tour, while Filmmaker Roman Polanski has recently been eyeing Helmut Lang's creations.

La Fédération Française de la Couture has expanded the Paris calendar for the second time in a row to accommodate increased demand from designers wishing to show men's collections.

In total, 39 shows are scheduled over 5 days featuring designers from Spain, Korea, Indonesia, Russia, Belgium, Canada, Japan and Great Britain. The Spring / Summer 2004 men's collections have thus become an international fashion lab.

As times are changing, so are the styles, and if anything, Paris should give men lots of reasons to buy.