The Changing Times of Haute Couture
By: Mari Davis

DALLAS, Dec 20, 2003/ FW/ --- According to the Merriam Webster dictionary, “haute couture” is defined as “the houses or designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions for women.”

Its etymology is French, and it literally meant “high sewing.” The word “haute couture” was listed in the English dictionary in 1908.

Haute couture itself is older than that. It was born during the Second Empire of France and the Gilded Age (1860-1918) in America (about the time of the Industrial Revolution).

Ironically, Charles Worth, who is considered the Father of Haute Couture, is an Englishman who moved to Paris, which was already considered a fashion capital during the 19th century.

Charles Worth revolutionized fashion. He was the first one to “sign his name” on the garments he created. He was also the first to use “live mannequins” whom we call “models” today to “show off” the clothes in his atelier so that his clients would see how the garments look when worn.

Over a hundred years have passed since then. And though fashion pundits mostly agree that the golden age of haute couture (circa 1940s and 1950s) has passed, the industry is very much alive today.

It has definitely changed with the times. Charles Worth, if he were alive today would not recognize it. And if we go a little nearer in the past, Christian Dior will also be amazed on how much things have changed.

Women have changed. Their 19th century forbears cannot vote, and dependent on their men folk for almost everything.

It was not until during the 1920s when women were given the right to vote. And though it was “a giant step for womankind,” it would take the Second World War for women to be taken seriously as a labor force.

Today, women are part of almost all industries and work side by side with men. They have been to space, sit on the boardroom of big corporations, work in factories and even serve in the military.

So, haute couture, the pinnacle of fashion and the trend setting look created by the design houses have to cater to the contemporary woman.

Today, at the haute couture shows, we see “daywear” as part of the collection, when once upon time, it was mostly gowns.

Haute couture designers have to dress women who are at home in a corporate boardroom and the gala opening of the opera.

They walk the “celebrity red carpet” on their own right, not just as a “wife” or “date” of someone. In short, they are women of their own.

Though the clientele have changed, the traditions of haute couture have not. Rooted on a mastery of skills handed from generation to generation, the embroidery has remained exquisite, the cuts on clothes decisive and the tailoring is masterful.

The garments are artistic. In fact, the garments are works of arts on their own right.

And yes, the fashion pundits are right. The golden age of haute couture for this generation has passed. But like the tide that ebbs and flows, haute couture will see a golden age again.

Think of it this way. In terms of a sports team who goes through a process of rebuilding after dominating the arena for some time, haute couture is undergoing the same rebuilding process as it adapts to this new world of the second millennium.