The glitz and glam Milanese house is missing from the just published calendar for the season provided by the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion's governing body. Given Donatella's particular talent in attracting celebrities as diverse as Madonna, Chelsea Clinton, Gwyneth Paltrow, the Hilton sisters, Puff Daddy and Robert Altman, the lack of a Versace show will radically reduce the razzmatazz quotient in the Paris season, scheduled from Monday January 20 to Wednesday January 23.

"It's a real pity. The Versace show completed the spectrum. It's especially disappointing because, in my view, Donatella's last two haute couture collections were extremely good," Chambre president Didier Grumbach told FWD.

A spokeswoman for Versace in Paris confirmed that instead of a runway show, the house will present its couture collection in its flagship Paris boutique on the Faubourg St. Honore January 20 between 3pm and 6pm. "I imagine Donatella will be present," said the spokeswoman, who referred all other inquiries to the head office in Milan, which remained closed Friday.

Gianni Versace's couture debut in 1990 was a key moment in the revitalization of haute couture, back then more a challenge for moneyed matrons to digest rather than the high-energy media blitz that it is today.

"The people at Versace told me it was a 'strategic reflection,'" Grumbach said of the decision. Nonetheless, the move is sure to provoke speculation that the house is feeling the pinch from the current slump in consumer spending.

While Donatella's recent couture collections have garnered positive reviews and contained plenty of magazine spread worthy looks, she has suffered her share of critical barracking.

In other couture news, Philip Treacy is confirmed to return to the Paris season. England's favorite hatter, the Irish-born Treacy is booked to show on January 22 at 7:30pm. "This is a designer who has got plenty to say. He's a great addition to the season," said Grumbach.

Rumors are also rife that Azzedine Alaia will stage a show in his rambling Marais house during the couture season. Heightening expectations, Alaia recently hired the two top "mains," or craftspeople, from the now defunct couture house of Yves Saint Laurent.

"He'll probably show. Of course with Azzedine you can never tell until the last minute," laughed Grumbach.

One of the most acclaimed designers of his generation, the unpredictable Alaia has managed to stage just four shows in the past decade, generally to tiny crowds in his own headquarters.