Proenza Schouler: English Material Girl Meets Paco Rabanne
By Mari Davis
Photos by FW

DALLAS, Apr 12, 2005/ FW/ --- In a season of volume and femininity, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the design duo behind Proenza Schouler decided to go for a tailored 1980s looks with Paco Rabanne influences.

Bustier here… bustier that… it’s Madonna turned English during her Material Girl heydays. Throw in Paco Rabanne with his metallic vests and plexiglass and you get a sputnik Madonna.

Reviving the minis and the graphical prints of the 1960s, Proenza Schouler updated the silhouettes to fit the 21st century woman. A 10-button long coat in khaki that is trimmed with fur paired with knee-high granny stiletto boots looked hip and cool but not over-the-top.

But the bustier was a little bit much, even repetitive at times. It was seen as a top, under the chiffon gowns, on top of a silk tube top and as the bodice of a cocktail dress.

Cute mini skirts though that sometimes came sheered and worn with a belt. The hats are tomboyish, and were worn with almost everything. It’s a great addition to every girl’s wardrobe though, more chic and easier to carry than an umbrella.

Snug fitting jackets with rounded shoulders were either cropped at the waist or just below the hipline. The coup de grace is the cape-inspired jacket – roomy and warm.

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough did not break any new grounds, but this collection is definitely wearable, something that the twenty-something generation would love to get a hold of come fall.

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler