Romeo Gigli Fall 2007: Adaptation
Milano Moda Donna (Milan Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Feb 20, 2007/ FW/ --- Inspired by the ‘emergency fashion’ of the World War II era wherein women had to adapt and invent clothing due to rationing and shortages, Gentucca Bini, designing for Romeo Gigli reworked men’s clothing to become feminine and flirty while also allowing individual styling by the wearer.
Opening with a red vinyl raincoat that was cut and then sheered just above the knee, a floral mini skirt and knit top, Bini set the tone of the collection’s silhouette – generous, semi-structured yet flowing and the waist emphasized with thin sashes or belt.
Trench coats featured wide lapels and gathered details, sometimes adorned with ruffles. Trousers are wide-legged and skirts are A-line. Divided skirts were also proposed, for either riding or walking.
Prints are presented in a wide array – plaid, horizontal stripes, jacquard motif and graphical. Remember, this was based on ‘fashion emergency’ wherein one had to use what was available because there was nothing else to be had.
Charming in its own way, even sweet at times, Gentucca Bini was very successful in expressing what a creative mind can do. The trench coats and jackets look good and covetable alone. But with the incessant use of the same silhouettes of what was layered underneath like the dresses and skirts, the collection looked repetitive at times.
The trench coats and jackets, the trousers and few presentations of the dresses could have carried the collection and made it very tight and coherent. And it is really sad to say that with better editing, this could have been a wonderful presentation because of Bini’s inventiveness.
Perhaps, it was only an oversight and it could be easily repaired next season. Nevertheless, the solid colored trench coats will definitely find their way into a woman’s wardrobe next season.
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