Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland: Beautifully Stunning & Wearable
By Mari Davis
Photos by FW

PARIS, Jul 8, 2004/ FW/ --- “It’s very, very beautiful and very, very wearable. I like the off the shoulder black gown with a white bow,” Ivana Trump who sat front row told reporters after the show.

Together with Madame Chirac, the first lady of France, and French actor Gérard Depardieu (photo at left), a bevy of celebrities and serious couture clients that include Los Angeles socialite Susan Casden; Jean-Louis Scherrer Haute Couture Fall 2004 collection by Stéphane Rolland received well-deserved praise.

It’s the androgynous femme fatale style that Stéphane Rolland played with this season with a witty allusion to surrealism transforming it into a wonderful alchemy that seduce without ostentation.

Opening with a suit with a single-breasted jacket and pleated skirt, Stéphane Rolland set the tone of the collection as a flirtation with the knee, with skirts ready to flutter with the slightest breeze, alluding to Marilyn Monroe’s famous pose on the movie “The Seven Year Itch.”

It’s about allure and sensuality but staying within the side of decorum. Deep V necklines with hints of the bosom, that sometimes turns into triangular keyholes, yet never showing anything except the rise of the breast and cleavage.

Rolland cut his jackets close, hugging the waist with the shoulders pleated and gathered. He made the collars romantic, opting for heart and petal shapes, instead of the usual geometrical form.

He kept the silhouette slim, but chose the capes to be voluminous; making sure that it will keep the wearer warm. Furs were used sparingly, either as trim or as a stole, a hint of luxury without showiness.

Without a doubt, the day dresses are striking, even handsome, but it was in the gowns that Stéphane Rolland excelled. Using layering and draping, with exquisite embroidery, the gowns are just spectacular.

There is no particular emphasis. Stéphane Rolland understands and knows the woman’s body. He gave highlight to the shoulders, emphasized the waists and at times elongated the torso.

Sequins and crystals were scattered like tiny bronze or multicolor jewels to give the floating chiffons and iridescent sparkle. It’s the famous Hollywood glamour, the femme fatale once again, but this time she is reachable.

The coup de grace is the wedding gown with fur at the hemline and the train. Its simple silhouette hides the complexity of its construction. Stéphane Rolland makes it look so easy to dress beautiful women. That is his secret and that is also the reason why he is so successful.

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland

Jean-Louis Scherrer by Stéphane Rolland