PARIS, Mar 4, 2006/ FW/ --- When Sonia Rykiel retires, the inhabitants of Paris’ trendy Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter will probably erect some sort of shrine to her memory as no-one captures better the effortless chic of the Left Bank. As the thunderous applause that greeted the designer’s bow testifies, she has already been beatified by many in these parts as the patron saint of the capital’s bohemian bourgeoisie.

For the main, the collection was sexy while modest in a quintessentially French way with the soundtrack of Gallic crooners, as well as the clothes, evoking the Paris of the immediate post-war period.

The house lights dimmed leaving us in complete darkness but when they came back up again, everything remained black for almost the entire show. This started with the knitwear, through the dresses, took a brief pause and then resumed with a final section which could have been eveningwear but was surely more akin to lingerie.

Chunky ribbed knitwear opened proceedings with wrap dresses tied in bows, silk ruffles emerging from the hem and oversized slouchy woollen berets. With woven stockings and elevated patent shoes it was all, of course, very French but without being overtly clichéd. There were also fine-gauge knitted polo shirts worn with ties adorned with glittering pins and minimal fur boleros. A flared dungaree strapped catsuit in the same heavy knit was certainly less successful in obtaining the desired effect however.

Silk flowers and bouclé detailing ornamented dresses in satin, taffeta and velvet but again the predominant look was of heavy knits, layered or over a sheer blouse. The egg shape silhouette of the moment did make an appearance, as did, through ostrich feather ornaments, the obsession with the shoulder, but mainly the outfits followed the line of the body: Rykiel it must be said has always followed her own ideas about style rather than chasing trends.

The latter stages of the show saw a series of black lace slip dresses and body stockings which seemed a bit pointless and all part of an elaborate joke which was lost on most. Not many cared at the time though and when Rykiel coyly emerged in the style of a sultry cabaret star, she received a reception much warmer than one might expect facing the cold north wind in their underwear.

Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel