Mar 23, 2003/ FWD/ --- One probably never equates Canada with having a big fashion scene, but those who live in Toronto would beg to differ. Thanks to the Fashion Design Council of Canada (FDCC), the Ontario city is in its sixth season playing host to a week of established and emerging talent from Canadian designers.

Anyone expecting a similar scene to the chaos and paparazzi of New York fashion week would be sorely disappointed. Photographers obey the rules - staying in their assigned locations - and if attendees are turned away, they politely leave without another word. It’s all held at Toronto’s answer to the Bryant Park tents, the Liberty Grand, an impressive structure that has been host to numerous festivals, shows and exhibitions.

Established in 1991, the FDCC has worked hard to put Canada on the fashion map. A former designer herself, president Robin Kay knows a thing or two about competing with Canada’s international counterparts. “Since I’ve worked in the industry before, I know how hard it is to shine when we are overshadowed by the collections and designers from the States, Paris and Milan,” she told FWD at Tuesday’s opening night gala. “But hopefully within five years we will see these Canadian designers having a name for themselves all over the world.”

Kay and her board’s hard work have paid off. For the sixth season, Toronto Fashion Week has caused a splash in the city with journalists from such notable local outlets as The Toronto Star, Canadian Press and Fashion Television flocking to get front row seats at such shows as David Dixon, Arthur Mendonca and Layer, whose designer Jennifer Dares will show later this week. Co-sponsored by such brands as L’Oreal Paris, Moet & Chandon and Elle magazine, the event brings together Toronto’s fashion set eager to see and support their fellow brothers.

But despite an impressive display outside of the venue, the showing inside falls a bit short of spectacular. Granted most of the Canadian designers are still new to the scene, but they could use a little coaching from the more established set. Tuesday’s Janet T. Planet show, which kicked off the week, displayed a noble effort, but the designer’s creations evoked too much of her industrial mind. A mechanical engineer for Nestlé Canada by day, her marriage of the left and right brains made for a collection that was too avant garde to be wearable.

The show opened with five or six models lost in the “Underworld” forest, a tactile metaphor for overcoming fear by going back to nature. Curling bark and wood grain pieces inspired the details in the jackets – sometimes using the actual elements themselves – and looked too harsh with the sheer green, gingham apron dresses Janet T. Planet sent out. The quilted wrap mini skirt was littered with torn appliqués, and its bulky material made the A-line too wide for any figure.

New designer Engelbert Gayagoy’s eveningwear show on Wednesday looked like Barbarella meets boudoir. The entire collection consisted solely of red lace, and the shredded and sheer dresses did anything but cover up appropriate parts. The conservative audience shifted uncomfortably in their seats as the models slowly sauntered out, displaying their wares for all to see – one dress was even purposely cut out to show a select view of a model’s bottom. Paired with lace obi belts and heavy kimono-inspired sleeves, it’s hard to imagine anyone seeing the light of day in one of Gayagoy’s numbers. When a model wearing a red lace wedding dress made her way back down the runway, a New York journalist hissed, “Oh no! She’s coming back!”

But Ula Zukowska’s collection proved that the FDCC is headed in the right direction. First showing at Toronto fashion week as a new label three years ago, the Polish-born architect-turned-designer’s fall 2003 show was just the right mix of urban classic and cutting edge couture. High collars and multi-dimensional fabrics made for a sophisticated collection – stretch Lycra and silk ruched cargos illuminated the runway, but could’ve done without the jodhpur-inspired cuts. But asymmetrical cowl neck turtlenecks made of fleece were sumptuous and warmed up what has been a cold runway. Fur was seen for the first time, showing up on collars and stoles. For evening, a beautiful spaghetti-strap dress with a fluid wrap front left an indelible impression.

And being literally hours away from the possibility of war, Zukowska chose the moment to send out two skirts with the words “War Kills Civilizations Not Leaders” and “Non A La Guerre” embroidered on. Backstage, Zukowska credited FDCC for the help with her brand, which currently sells in Canada, Germany and the States – including three boutiques in San Francisco. “The organization is much, much stronger,” she said, “and with the way it’s been going, I know that Canadian fashion will appear quickly on the scene.”