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Fall Harvest From A New Crop: TFI's New Labels
(Photos by Joshua Meles)
TORONTO, Apr 11, 2003/ TFI/ --- Wallace Studios, a film studio in Toronto’s west end,
set the stage for the fall 2003 New Labels fashion show and wine-tasting reception presented
by Vin de Pays d’Oc and the Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI).
More than 500 media, buyers and fashion industry members were packed into a pure white
studio space to witness the debut runway collections of four up-and-coming Canadian
designers: Mila Finkelshtein, Caroline Lim, Ranjit Chopra and Rosa Costanzo.
Mila Finkelshtein’s label, The Waiter and the Slut, and her fall collection, predicted
the story of what happened to Goldilocks after the three bears incident.
The girly clothes hinted at shades of American designer Betsey Johnson. Models pranced
out sporting rosy-red painted-on cheeks and oversized pink tulle bows and wearing whimsical
neon-yellow cotton-braided tops, orange satin and hot pink-trimmed separates that contrasted
with layers of diaphanous nude beige chiffon and black jersey.
The Day-Glo fabrics were silk-screened with teddy bear motifs and sparkling with sequins.
A sexy bra-top paired with a plaid swing skirt, ankle socks and round-toed pumps evoked
a 1940s retro feel.
“She was the most innovative,” says Globe and Mail fashion editor Deborah Fulsang, who
was a New Labels judge.
“I loved the braided satin tops and the details such as the sequinned teddy bears.
The pieces could go from being sexy and edgy or, depending how they were merchandized,
they could also be sold as items with a broader appeal.”
Kity by Caroline Lim wasn’t for the timid.
The collection offered tight, sexy, ultra-short skirts set in a neutral palette of beiges,
off-white and camels.
Barely-there dresses with deep décolletés and skirts—too-short to be respectable—contrasted
with sportier hoodies and jackets with arctic fox fur and leather trim.
Of particular note were beautifully fitted trousers featuring a yoke made of narrow strips
of top-stitched leather.
Simplicity was the hallmark of Ranjit Chopra’s C59 Black Label.
The all-black collection of dresses and separates was simultaneously austere but
sophisticated and highly marketable.
They were crafted into classically tailored shirtdresses and voluminous caftans in fine silks
and wools and accessorized with smooth black leather tabards and harnesses created by stylist
and accessories designer Alissa Krost.
Ottawa-based designer Rosa Costanzo, presented one of the most polished collections.
“She has quality goods and looks like she has a couple of seasons under her belt,” says
David Dixon, another New Labels judge.
Her Urban Eden-themed line featured rocker-chic
’80s-styled separates. Intricately appliquéd ribbons—a skill she learned while working
for Fendi, Valentino and Etro in Italy—streamed across the front and back of tops and skirts.
Flirty minis worn with leg warmers in both thick-knit and sheer-nylon versions were paired
with off-shoulder Flashdance tops and sweaters.
Black predominated, but was softened with purple-pinks, soft wine and beige.
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