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Alena Akhmadullina Spring 2008: Olympic Constructivism
Paris Pręt-á-Porter (Paris Fashion Week) Spring 2008
By: Jean Paul Cauvin
Photos courtesy of Alena Akhmadullina
Click image to see bigger photo View slide show

Alena Akhmadullina Alena Akhmadullina PARIS, Oct 5, 2007 / FW/ --- It is a surprise to very few people around the world that the summer of 2008 will see a new edition of the Olympic Games, this time, in Beijing, China. Alena Akhmadullina, just like J.C. de Castelbajac, has themed her collection for the season around this expected event.

But when the French designer chose to treat it with a cartoon-like revisitation of antique Greece, Egypt and Rome, Akhmadullina, in her own tradition, chose to give her vision of Russian heroines, reinterpreting the codes of constructivism, a movement which found a major expression in the 20th century in The Soviet Union.

It is now clear, for her fourth showing in Paris, that Alena Akhmadullina is clearly drawing inspiration from the past of her own country. She is doing so in a very contemporary manner, far from any history of costume class, to speak to her generation.

Her intentions are certainly pacific, but also one would not be surprised to hear that she is trying to tell her generation in Russia: you can be proud of our past glory. Today patriotism might sound a little tacky, however, do not deny your history, it can still be pertinent for today.

Alena Akhmadullina Alena Akhmadullina On a catwalk that was the shape and colours of a stadium runway track, backed by a wall of live assistants holding in front of them painted squares to represent sports figures, or stadium flags in the tradition of former or present communist countries’ parades, the young Russsian designer has sent out extremely refined and yet simple silhouettes underlining some body features with inlays of Plexiglas as if to praise the work on the muscles on the female athletes’ bodies.

But her work is not only seen on a white tee-shirt embroidered with the futuristic see-through material which could sell very well next summer. Akhmadullina also redefines volumes, makes the shoulders extremely high, in stretch printed overalls, uses plexiglass pieces to create a tails coat, creates a new line of feminine and elegant sneakers.

Alena Akhmadullina Alena Akhmadullina Although she excels this season with her see-through embroidered embellishments, Alena Akhmadullina convinces also with her proportions: her first exit, a simple V neck dress just tied at the waist by an elastic band in multiple layers of white light fabric marvels: proportions are perfect and enhance the silhouette although the model is walking on flats.

This first look expresses femininity in a new way! The softness of the fabric underlines the resolution of her wearer, directed to her goal. It has a pure allure floating around it.

Following V-neck or round neck looks introduce colours (purple and orange) in a more flashy way that will definitely appeal to the young generation, like a reminiscence of the Jean-Paul Gaultier collection, two seasons ago, about fitness gear, treated here in a more minimalistic spirit.

This collection might well be a transition for Akhmadullina, who showed for the first time models with natural hair. Not all however had natural buns to enhance their heroin traits… a red haired wig was also clad in the elaborate rectangles of Plexiglas that gave consistency to the collection, look after look.

The plastic see-through material, cut in rectangular pieces and tied together with white thread, had first appeared in gloves to invade progressively the entire body and give it a cosmic carapace aspect.

Alena Akhmadullina, not content with only one technique, but consistent with her theme, has also underlined a blouson of beige leather with inlays on that part of the body in a very cleverly architectured style.

The collection is original, with one redingote jacket confining to perfection in its tailoring. Alena Akhmadullina is certainly a name to follow season after season, although she is only at the beginning of a very promising international career. She might become a major name soon, as she is definitely improving very fast in the techniques she is using, and still extremely consistent in her inspiration. Bravo!

 

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

 

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

 

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

 

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

Alena Akhmadullina
Alena Akhmadullina

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