Authier Brings Back the 1950s Golden Years of Style For Ski Wear
Milano Moda Donna (Milan Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by Lyndsey Wong
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DALLAS, Apr 24, 2007/ FW/ --- Founded by John Authier in 1910, Authier has almost 100 years of history when it comes to innovations and cutting-edge technology in skiwear.
Presenting its Fall 2007 / Winter 2008 collection in Milan last February, Gustavo Sangiorgi, Creative Director of the brand decided to bring back the glamour, luxury and style of the ski-sloped of the 1950s and combined with today’s high-tech elements.
“If an item of clothing posses superior technical features, then it is important that the constituents which makes it fashionable refer to an abiding sense of what is stylish,” commented Sangiorgi, sounding almost philosophical when describing his latest collection.
To Sangiorgi, the silhouette is an integral part when designing for the discerning taste of ski enthusiasts who insist on the highest quality of performance without giving up style.
Sangiorgi believes that the 1950s were of fundamental importance to high style, explaining why he chose that decade as a starting point for his collection.
“In those days, the distinction between beauty and ugliness were clear cut,” Authier’s Creative Director, said. “The social function underlying aesthetic choices were very different today.”
“[During those days] everything was dictated by a conscious choice; nowadays, there is much confusion between what conforms to aesthetic criteria and that which is ‘trendy.’ One’s choice of sportswear [during the 1950s] was always the result of a particular choice, as opposed to [today’s] being the symptom of a passing trend,” he continued.
Using that as his guiding principle in designing the Authier Fall 2007 / Winter 2008 collection, Sangiorgi started first with the fabric. The materials must meet both aesthetic and technical requirements, thus the choice of shiny and iridescent surface, with opaque velvet inserts, tricot and fur.
To ward away the cold, padding was added to create a quilt effect, but the padding was soft and light, making the garment ‘weightless’.
Light and fluid outlines for men and soft feminine cut for women with curving forms that allow space so that movement will not be restricted. Both were seen in the quilted leather jackets and on the goose-filled nylons.
Details also played an important part – from the polished metal zips, real goose-feather padding and fox, beaver or murmansky for the edges and inner lining, Sangiorgi’s extensive research on the ski slopes of Cortina d’Ampezzo Gstadd, St. Moritz and Aspen proved that these are vital elements.
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