Les Hommes Menswear Spring 2007: A New Perspective of Dandyism
Milan Menswear Show Spring 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
More photos --->> | 1 | 2
MILAN, Jun 27, 2006/ FW/ --- Fashion is not an island. In it’s simplest form, clothing was created to protect the human body from the elements. In its 21st century state, fashion is an amalgamation of cultural and political influences. It is as much as the designer’s vision as it is a statement of an opinion.
Tom Notte & Bart Vandebosch, the design duo behind the label Les Hommes view fashion in its higher form. Their visualization is thought provoking; the theme of their runway shows always has more than what meets the eyes.
Like this season, they chose their venue with care and in relation with their theme. As they mentioned in their press notes, ‘the inspiration was the imaginary world of underground gang life loosely based on Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange.’
So, they held their catwalk presentation in an underground parking lot. The backdrop was a collection of cars that came from the junkyard. Notte and Vandebosch created a world that might be fantasy, yet it exists in our world, though in a different format.
It’s the young man who holds a responsible job during the day; someone who wears three-piece suits. The suit jacket and vest are snug fitting, while the trousers are loose at the top courtesy of pleats in front, then tapers gradually towards the hem.
He wears a dressing gown when he wakes up; he is ‘civilized and urbane’ during the day. But, when night comes, he changes. He puts in markings on his face, part of a gang, though not necessarily, ‘the boyz from the hood.’
He sheds his respectable suits and gets ready to go to the clubs in iridescent silver outfits. Sometimes, he chooses to wear tight pants that are golden, or knitted long sweaters that are unfinished.
It is a new perspective of dandyism, where street elements were added to formal wear. Bomber jackets in silver are worn with loosely cut pants. Snug fitting suits are paired with shorts and kilts.
Notte and Vandebosch’s message is very succinct – fashion is not an island; it is an amalgamation of elements that converged to make a very clear statement.
|