Henrik Vibskov Men Fall 2014: The Spaghetti Handjob

HENRIK VIBSKOV FW14 02PARIS, Jan 18, 2014/ — With a provocative title “The Spaghetti Handjob”, Henrik Vibskov once again rocked the status quo with his Fall 2014 collection as he took influences from a variety of complimentary and contradictory sources, then juxtaposed them to make it his own.

From chaos he found serenity as he used natural systems such as beehives and anthills which at first seem chaotic, but on closer inspection reveal highly ordered and complex infrastructures as his inspiration.

As usual, a mesmerising show installation accompanies the collection: while long minty spaghetti bands rotate slowly on huge poles, models walk on a twenty meter long bed of stretched elastic bands, as if being churned up in a consumer food mixer from a kitchen of the 1970s.

The models’ headwear is reminiscent of that worn by Russian military tank operators on their way to deepest Siberia, and the boots are fit for the harshest, coldest conditions. The faces of seals appear in several pieces, cropped and distorted, and neoprene layered sweatshirts and trousers would perfectly suit ice-diving expeditions.

The layering of fabrics within individual pieces plays a significant part in the collection, as each layer serves a different purpose; jackets have been deconstructed to show interior pockets from the outside, and organic, twisting cuts and patterns follow the contours of the body.

Trousers are baggy, giving a new relaxed and exaggerated look to the classic suit, and a series of colourful hand crafted knits have been embroidered to create a 3D look using old-fashioned rug hooking techniques.

This season Vibskov has been working in co-operation with a non-profit organisation in India to produce khadi cotton, which is manufactured by hand by unemployed women in rural areas using traditional techniques. The cotton is processed without the use of electricity, and dyed using vegetable dyes, before being printed using hand-carved wood blocks.

Photos by Shoji Fujii courtesy of Henrik Vibskov

 

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