Photos courtesy of IFEMA
From the Press Notes:
Lines of the collection:
In its Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Collection, Jesús Lorenzo for Groenlandia remains faithful to its mission to demystify classic fur fashion, offering a series of fur creations for the youthful, urban woman. Although there are a number of ideas for men, the collection focuses mainly on women and their multiple facets. The initial inspiration departs from a “film noir” appeal, replete with all of its contrasts, in order to portray the world of women: ranging from the irresistible femininity of the “femme fatale” and the paradox of the apparently inoffensive woman who can be extremely dangerous, to the fascinating androgynous image of the female spy … Here we come across a whole universe of paradigms imbued with chiaroscuro appeal, glamour, expressionism, special effects, fiction, reality and seduction. This world of contrasts is used as the guiding thread for a collection that also presents certain 1980’s influences, targeting the most fashion-conscious women.
The colour ranges focus on three main blocks, which appear throughout the collection: natural fur shades, furs dyed in pastel shades (rosewood and dusty tones, green, pale blue, mother-of-pearl and white with streaks of colour), and shocking colours (red, Klein blue, midnight blue, bubble-gum pink and, of course, black), together with furs with multi-coloured dyed finishes. We might also highlight the abundant use of metallic effects.
Together with lynx coats, dyed mink jackets and double-face coats in “Breitschwanz” astrakhan, we will come across an extremely wide variety of clothing items in carefully selected furs: sable, mink, glace lamb, wrinkled glace lamb, nubuck, “petit-gris”, weasel, red fox, astrakhan and furs featuring metallic prints and relief effects. Rex furs (derived from mutations) shine in stoles and capes with multi-coloured dyed finishes.
The collection grants considerable prominence to combinations of fine fabrics with furs, as in the case of its coats of cutting-edge design replete with collars made of curly Mongolian lamb’s wool. Glace lamb (mainly in black, featuring certain effects in colour contrasts) is used abundantly in a series of highly youthful and feminine dresses with open backs and “wing” effects, crew-neck jerseys, drainpipe trousers and bodices, together with quartered glace lamb for short jackets and hunting jackets.
We might also highlight the use of technological fabrics (waterproof but breathable) in coats and long jackets for men and women, made of laminated black micro-fibre with inner linings of washed Spanish lamb featuring contrasting colours and stitching to match.
Alongside the waist-coats made of different varieties of fur (red fox for informal waist-coats with hoods or mink for long waist-coats of evasé silhouette), a series of accessory clothing items acquire considerable importance in the collection, such as puffed stoles, stoles with sleeves (a hybrid between a stole and a jacket) and separate hoods, all of which contribute fun and highly youthful ideas to the collection.
Jesús Lorenzo, the youngest fur fashion designer in Europe and the third generation of his family to work in the field, has won various international awards for his fur fashion work. In this respect, he has inherited all of the fur-fashion know-how of the prestigious family business, Groenlandia, whose clothing items are highly valued for their impeccable appeal and use of truly unique materials, in order to create a series of collections with his own special style and approach. Thus, with a masterful touch and a strong sense of originality, he combines the luxury of fur fashion with a sense of feminine elegance and a completely updated take on the hippest and most urban trends of the international fashion scene.