Giambattista Valli has turned his attentions to the truest British style, reinventing its tenets and breaking them up.
To do so he has freely created a sophisticated mosaic of formal quotes, comprising traditional British fabrics such as colorful tartans and the clean graphic lines of the «Prince of Wales» check, with the rough elegance of country tweed.
The meticulous masculine spirit of Savile Row blurs into a contemporary take on a sporty yet feminine style, powered by futuristic technological research. The garment seams are heat-sealed, whilst surfaces are coated and cut using a laser; the fabrics recall the finest traditional British materials using tartan and mohair check, whilst neck-scarf prints are created on double-layer cottons.
The borders embroidered with heraldic motifs are striking, as is the camouflage embroidering with a mixture of textures such as check wool, mohair, technical mesh and patent. Heat-sealed embroidered flowers are cut and applied using both graduated and all – over approaches.
The creative effects are combined to create a weave made up of patchworks and overlapping elements, patterns and colors. The volumes see clear-cut designs that focus on the waistline, more important and pivotal than ever before.
The haute couture spirit comes face to face with a sporting, laid-back vocation. The most emblematic item is the riding coat: it carries all the hallmarks of nineteenth-century style worked over with flair.
Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall / Winter 2015 – 16 draws on the ritual of dressing for horse riding, on the appeal that combines sporting attitude and tradition with a healthy dose of snobbery, a touch of humor and tongue –in – cheek irony.
The woman Giambattista Valli has conjured up for the Moncler Gamme Rouge F / W 2015 – 16 collection is ready to strike out for a weekend of horse riding on a vast aristocratic estate in the English countryside.
But she does it her own way, defying any classifications or clichés; she can allow herself the luxury of aesthetic challenges and extremely daring metropolitan color contrasts.
No doubt it is a game that would have gone down well with Nancy Mitford, the great novelist and eldest of Lord Redesdale’s legendary daughters. With her extraordinary existential restlessness and bold eccentricity, she positively dazzled in mid – Twentieth century Britain.
Photos courtesy of Moncler Gamme Rouge