Maria Calderara Fall 2008: Romantic Space Odyssey
@ 10:37 am February 21, 2008Filed under: Milan, Runway Shows
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MILAN, Feb 21, 2008 / FW/ — The invitation was intriguing – ‘the Earth seen from Jupiter… if the earth were really round’. Is it going to be sci-fi, as in Star Trek or Star Wars? Or is it going to be romantic, like Frank Sinatra’s song, “Fly me to the moon, let me play among the stars, let me see what spring is like on Jupiter and Mars.” As it turned out, it was a little bit of both.
The short press notes was like reading poetry – “we would live in a more harmonious and peaceful world: pleasant, pure, bright like a perfect sphere interrupting total darkness under the friendly planet’s benevolent regard.”
The catwalk was round, huge red balls hanging, like Jupiter’s moons and its rings (yes, Jupiter has rings, but not as pronounced as Saturn). When the first model came out, that is when the real poetry began.
There was a feeling of lightness even as Maria Calderara experimented with volume, like the layers of powdery tulle worn like an apron dress over lightweight wool. A very unusual combination of fabric and color, yet it worked because the ethereal tulle suggested a sensitive and intense femininity inside heightened by the grey woolen long sleeves and maxi beads on the bodice that looked like a comet tail.
There are also the surprises, like oblique placket on a coat with a bubble hem; the collar oversized and protrudes like an architectural detail.
The tuxedo was reworked and given pure fluidity. With unique and unusual details like an asymmetrical fastening, an oblique hem and dramatic ampleness, except for the knowledge that it began as man’s clothing, all masculinity had been erased.
Speaking of details, Maria Calderara created pure poetry: Maxi beads threaded on silk ribbons, like planets rotating in infinite time, a shower of crystals and glass beads, scattered and then gathered by the wind, yielding an air of random irregularity, decorating clothes, making them unique, and now again becoming part of them.
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(Photos courtesy of Maria Calderara, click on image to see bigger photo.)
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[...] Maria Calderara Fall 2008: Romantic Space Odyssey [...]
[...] MILAN, Feb 21, 2008 / FW/ — One thing about Consuelo Castiglioni is that she never rests on her laurels. Every season, every catwalk show and in every collection, there is a directional approach as Castiglioni continues to bring the Marni label to a different level each time. And for Fall 2008, Marni is about freedom of choice, as the wardrobe becomes a freewheeling set of options in terms of forms, colors, weights, finishes and details, thus the final look is individualistic and not the ‘corporate-fed-styling’ that has been the fodder and strength of glossies for decades. The 21st century is a very aware world, wherein the traditional geographical division had been blurred, thanks to the internet and Wi-Fi. It is neither about the global village nor who has the latest technology. It is about the vast knowledge and information available at your fingertips 24×7, thus giving an individual a set of choices. [more] Maria Calderara Fall 2008: Romantic Space Odyssey [...]