Emanuel Ungaro Fall 2008: Esteban Cortazar Debuts in Paris
@ 12:21 am February 28, 2008Filed under: Paris, Runway Shows
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PARIS, Feb 28, 2008 / FW/ — New York’s fashion darling Esteban Cortazar debuted at Emanuel Ungaro today, making the 23-year old American designer the talk of the town during a day when he had to compete with fashion’s big names to the likes of Karl Lagerfedl, Akris, Ennio Capasa of Costume National, Dries Van Noten, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy and Hussein Chalayan.
Proposing fluid silhouettes in sorbet shades of winter colors, Esteban Cortazar is taking the venerable French fashion house into a new path. While his predecessors chose to highlight the original Emanuel Ungaro prints, to the point of mining of the archives and literally just lifting the silhouettes, the Miami-based fashion whiz kid is bringing Emanuel Ungaro nearer the hearts of his generation – the Millennial.
“I want Ungaro to be cool, I want every girl to want to dress in Ungaro,” Cortazar told reporters. With huge braids as the main adornment, to the point that it was the most remarkable aspect in the collection, Cortazar arguably brought the house into a different plane in fashion in one season, something his predecessors were not able to achieve.
Though Cortazar received mixed reviews (some critics loved it, some did not), it also has to be noted that for the first time, people are talking about Emanuel Ungaro, instead of the usual ‘could not care less attitude’ from the fashion set on what the house was doing.
True, the collection is nowhere near the spirit of Emanuel Ungaro; yet it also has to be noted that previous attempts to revive the prints and romance associated with the house had backfired. Only the designer Emanuel Ungaro himself can do an authentic Emanuel Ungaro. Anyone trying to mimic him is just a poor imitation.
In short, Cortazar’s decision to take a different path was logical, even called for. With the house rooted heavily to the 1980s, even the 1990s, bringing it to the new millennium might actually mean reinventing the brand.
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Esteban is Colombian, not American, he got an american passport but, still 100% Colombian!!!