Les Hommes: Dynamic and Paradoxical
@ 9:23 pm June 22, 2008Filed under: Milan, Runway Shows
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MILAN, Jun 22, 2008 / FW/ — Japan, country of the Rising Sun, home of the ninja and the samurai, one of the oldest cultures in the world; the country we know today is a far cry from the time when the bushido code is the highest law of the land. Yet, movies like Kill Bill remind us of that time. Set in a modern world, the movie became Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, the design duo behind Les Homme inspiration for Spring / Summer 2009.
A collection that is thoroughly modern, with no signs of even being retro; yet the future, the past and the present flow and blend in one single moment. A paradox perhaps, but a beautiful paradox nonetheless, as the frenetic modernity of today merges seamlessly with the intensity and passion of the past.
Predominantly done in silk, organza and blended wool, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch drew shapes and form from the battle uniforms of the samurai. Translating the warlike yet elaborate design into sleek silhouettes that are slender, a graphic effect with just a slash, a triangle or a solid line became the accent that draws the eye was added.
The martial arts jacket and the traditional hakama trousers were both reworked and in turn defined the character of the collection. As an added bonus, a series of sports shoes that is youthful and eye catching added to the dynamic quality of the collection.
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(Photos courtesy of Les Hommes)
Milan Menswear Report: Rock & Roll Rules at Costume National & Les Hommes
@ 1:38 am January 14, 2008Filed under: Fashion Designers, Milan, Runway Shows
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MILAN, Jan 14, 2008 / FW/ — Designers’ love affair with rock & roll continue with Les Hommes and Costume National, albeit the treatment are different with the grammar of the classical male wardrobe as the tie that binds.
Ennio Capasa, known for his sartorial prowess returned to the signature Costume National roots of minimalism that is sharp without being harsh. Sloping shoulders that fit just right, trench coats that are cozy, and blousons that can be worn with everything and go anywhere. With the English gentleman as his template, the classic 3-piece suit was reworked to be comfy without losing its formality. Sometimes, jackets and coats were even ‘customized’ to look wrinkled. It was almost a trip to memory lane when John, Paul, George and Ringo wore suits on stage. But it was far from the 1960s. In fact, it was a modern rendition of a classic theme.
Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch of Les Hommes treatment was bolder with big plaids, brighter hues of gray and black, an elegant punk rocker posing as an English gentleman. Snug fitting jackets and trousers, big scarves, silvery suit jackets, even knee-high boots that gave the collection a militaristic look.
Costume National & Les Hommes also have another thing in common. The message – don’t be scared to dress the way you want!