Akris by Albert Kriemler Spring 2006: Sensual Sensibilities
By Mari Davis
Photo below: Albert Kriemler on the runway, Fall 2005
Photo by: Javier Mateo

PARIS, Oct 7, 2005/ FW/ --- In a season when the 1970s was a major inspiration, Albert Kriemler, designing for Akris also delved into that decade for his Spring / Summer 2006 expanding on the sensual sensibilities of the era, portraying femininity that is strong.

His muse, a portrait of Angelica Huston shot by Richard Avedon, which in a lot of ways was not the icon of the period, yet in choosing this less well-known image compared to disco, Stephen King and Freddie Kruger, Albert Kriemler’s take was more representative of the romance of this era that literally and figuratively changed the way we dress.

Tailored pantsuit sets and accordion pleats were given a new leash on life with a lighter construction.

Opting for a neutral color palette of different washes of beige, Kriemler’s sharper lines on the more tailored ensembles such as the jacket and the trousers made the look very eye-catching and strong.

The look is fresh and buoyant, capturing the optimism of the 1970s. After all, the U.S. just got out of the Vietnam War, the oil crises just finished and Ronald Reagan was just sworn into office.

Putting history aside, the collection that focused more on skirts and dresses have an almost weightless construction emphasized with the use of silk chiffon, georgette and linen.

Even the heavier fabrics like leather and organza were treated with care and cut in such a way that the dreamy quality of the collection was maintained.

Just like the 1970s wherein the waistline moved from empire, to the natural waist, all the way to just above the hips, Kriemler did the same, but this time, thin strips of ribbons or pinching the fabric slightly created the effect instead of the big bows and more defined alterations that was predominant in that decade.

Albert Kriemler kept Akris’ message tight and unfaltering in all the 39 silhouettes shown. The finale, a double coat dress in flower and petal print structured silk organza with a leather-edge cotton belt and kimono sleeves said it all – sharper lines and light construction.

Fall 2007 Photo courtesy of Akris

Fall 2005 Photo by Javier Mateo

Website: www.akris.ch

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