Akris Spring 2007: Classy Graphic Transparencies
Paris Prêt-á-Porter Spring 2007
By: Jean Paul Cauvin
Illustraion by: Julien Fournié
PARIS, Oct 4, 2006 / FW / --- Classy white high runway, curtains and benches, with a deep square arch at the models' entrance were treating fashion writers and buyers alike with an atmosphere of sheer soothing light, at the Akris fashion show this morning.
As Yevgeniya, the first model, came along in a fully white look consisting of a cotton suit with a cropped jacket, worn on white tight pants with a leather waist-tightener, everybody knew that this collection was going to be fitted to the female silhouette and also, that it would be really wearable, elegant and reasonably creative creations.
Crisp white corsage dresses, cotton voile shirts, skirts, coats and dresses clad in wide bandeau belts of linen and leather play on fine and thicker fabrics, gracefully marking the waistline of a long figure. Flesh-coloured jerseys on a swimsuit or invisible tulle inlays create a tasteful nude effect for well-behaved girls with a twist.
Some round-shaped open sleeves uncover the lower arm and form a delicate long shell for the shoulder. The same round shape folds on itself on the sides of taffeta shorts to reveal long thighs and slightly longer inner side pockets.
One mid-thigh length dress shape is a standout in this collection with the swimsuit neckline on the flat front, the back displaying a surprise volume down from the middle created by a dense plissé.
Nevertheless, the most remarkable feature in the designer’s work for this season, is the use of carefully thought out transparencies in his looks where different layers of clothes reveal different aspects of the woman's body.
These clothes hide and unveil what they want: a black net jacket is worn on a flesh coloured silk organza dress with illusion tulle bodice for instance. Some among the better ones can also play with three-dimensional movements in squares of opaque appliqués. The best pieces become more graphic and determined like on the long organza dress with panels of black satin.
As the show went along, the graphic reality of the collection emerged, more white blending into silver at the beginning, more black mixing with nude flesh tones at the end.
Inspired by a vintage swimsuit, Albert Kriemler has managed to reinterpret it imaginatively throughout all of his sheer looks playing with lines and squares to create diverse pieces with a pertinent coherence and clever direction for 21st century women.
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