A La Disposition Spring 2006: 21st Century Pirates and Merveilleuses
By: Jean Paul Cauvin
Illustration by: Julien Fournié

NEW YORK, Sep 14, 2005 /FW / – The designing couple Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen, former teachers at the Parson’s School of Design, showed for the third time in New York City a very mature collection at the Altman Building today.

Opening with a corset, which remains the centerpiece of their womenswear wardrobe, A La Disposition, proposed very structured looks with a contemporarily simple flare.

Their goal is not an easy one to achieve, but they have succeeded to convince a very informed audience that corsets could certainly come back when modernized and comfortable to wear.

Eggshell, raven blacks and shades of grey compose for the summer 2006 a palette of smoked colors that reveal the full beauty of their clothes’ architecture.

Naval looks seem inspired by 18th century pirates, basqued bodices and pannier skirts brought back the spirit of the Merveilleuses in a resolutely contemporaneous way.

Chiffon was used in one piece as if to wrap a shirtwaist, and black lacquered linen was tailored on a very cleverly counterbalanced dress.

A tuxedo shirtwaist made of white light poplin inlaid with black muslin worn on a double flounced black skirt with a white serigraphy was one of the standouts in the collection.

But the last evening dress was certainly the climax of this extremely refined collection: made of black light taffetas, it displayed Watteau knotted pleats in the back and on its long front pockets.

These shirts, skirts and dresses should find their clientele among very choosy ladies who have a taste for delicate craftsmanship and don’t want déjà vu.

The most demanding clients will be pleased to know that corsets and bustiers can be made to measure upon order, as for their best customers, Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen are always a la disposition.

Spring 2006 Illustration by: Julien Fournié