PARIS, Jan 31, 2006/ FW/ --- Showing only second on the Haute Couture official calendar after such a big name as Armani would be a daunting task for any young designer and so the Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista deserves much credit for what was in many ways a brave effort.

The show was homage to all things Sixties with geometric black and white designs, high hemlines and Mary Quant silhouettes throughout. Just in case anyone didn’t notice, all the models helped us to get the reference with their Vidal Sassoonesque bobs.

Whereas the originals were largely symmetrical though, here the fringe invariably featured a missing wedge that gave a lop-sided feel. The same commentary could be applied to many of the exits: beauty normally reveals itself through harmony and balance and so to do asymmetrical silhouettes well requires much skill and, when the protrusions are as large as they were here, great expertise in the construction.

Perhaps this was a collection that should be taken for what it is and judged accordingly. Putting it under the intense and often harsh spotlight which is Haute Couture does no favours to either the designer or the art, as if truth be told, especially with many houses increasingly moving toward a demi-couture for their off the peg collections, this was Ready to Wear no matter which week it was shown in.

The looks which worked the best were the most straightforward and this was highlighted right from the start. Whereas the opening silhouette may have looked architectural and dynamic on paper with its angular asymmetrical wing-like shoulders, in the execution it was a little flat and formless. Next up was a simple black polo-neck and pant combination which said much more about the ideals of the decade which inspired it.

There were some good ideas – notably the pleated chiffon numbers held by a supporting woollen cloth armature, or the guardsman chest braiding details – but in general fussy tinkering spoilt the collection.

Maybe the designer felt obliged to do more as it was Haute Couture but really he should remain true to himself and trust the instincts which have brought him success in the past.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

Felipe Oliveira Baptista