Basso & Brooke Fall 2006: The New Hot Tickets In London
London Fashion Week Fall 2006
LONDON, Feb 16, 2006 / FW/ --- An interesting thing about London fashion week is that, unlike say Paris for example, no one is really sure which ones are the hot tickets. Because of its reputation for breaking new talent, everyone comes here hoping to come away having discovered the next big thing.
Rumours fly around the press room like what the classical writer Virgil compared to a winged beast; everyone wanting to be able to say in years to come, ‘Of course, I was there supporting him when he was a nobody showing to twenty people in the back room of a pub.’
Judging from the chaos outside the darkened doorway, which gave entrance to the Basso & Brook show, this duo has already passed the stage of obscurity. It seemed as though everyone in London wanted to be there for what may come to be seen as a defining fashion moment, the hysterical throng attracting the attention of the police who, perhaps fearing a riot, at one point threatened to close the show down altogether. Many are called as they say, but few are chosen.
Once passed the initial security, who joked of bringing electric cattle prods next time around, we descended through a dark tunnel into a labyrinth of red brick vaults deep beneath London Bridge station where the world’s biggest fashion editors huddled in the shadows.
The eerie dry-ice smoke when juxtaposed with laser lights gave the effect of the Dickensian London of Jack the Ripper transposed into the space age and this wasn’t by mistake.
Speaking after the show, (I can’t find his first name anywhere – should have asked really!!!) Basso spoke of the idea of breaking down the boundaries of time. ‘We wanted to think not only of looking at the past, but also of people from the past trying to glimpse the future.’
In the collection this desire manifested itself through silhouettes that were largely Victorian - think top hats and riding jackets with tails - but with collage prints showing aliens, astronauts and shooting stars.
Another feature of the Anglo-Brazilian pair’s vision for next winter was the contrast within outfits between rigidly tailored pieces and more flowing items.
The first exit bore witness to all of these elements with a sharply tailored Victorian jacket in black wool that comprised of a tight bodice style waistcoat, fitted bolero section complete with high button-down collar and streamlined sleeves, and tails so large they almost morphed into a skirt.
The pointed knee-high lace-up boots, leather gloves and crumpled top hat were pure eighteenth century also but the acid green computer circuitry motif that adorned the leggings and a tie, which drew attention to rather than hid the décolleté cleavage, spoke of another age.
The effect was sexy while reserved, futuristic while historical and all in all, just what the designers set out to do.
Elsewhere we saw much chiffon gauze; cape shouldered trench coats, draped scarf hoods and racier strapless panel dresses. The color scheme was subdued with rust, faded mustard and coppery reds dominating along with the ubiquitous black. There were touches of glittering crystal and neon purple however which owed as much to techno as the booming soundtrack.
Taking their inspiration from the vision of Newton and Galileo, scientific greats who did much to further our understanding of the universe, it is perhaps fair to say that tonight this wondrous canopy that is fashion’s night sky comes complete with two new stars.
On the subject of London’s own renaissance the pair were in agreement. ‘This is the only place that would understand us as it’s the only place that has a true sense of multiculturalism.’
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