PARIS, Mar 24, 2005/ FW/ --- Getting a new handle on his craft, Giambattista Valli returned to the Paris runways with a sumptuous collection created in 1950s style. Inspired by the great Italian actresses of yesteryear such as Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren, it is clear that Valli has gotten his groove back.

Not surprisingly enough, Valli steered away from dominating prints in his own collection in order to avoid outright comparisons with the work he did at Ungaro.

The long black military coat with Mongolian collar is crafted with incredible detailing around the wrists, and buttonholes, Valli’s short cropped jacket in wool, cashmere and mohair is set off with black velvet bows.

Among the pieces to have a hint of colour to them, the designer did a virgin wool turtleneck with a thick rolled collar and elbow length sleeves.

Silk skirts in black and peach create a trompe-oeil effect. It is finished off with black sequins and a black velvet belt.

Valli’s little black dress is a winner. Complete with spaghetti straps, draping and a balloon bottom raised uppers underneath the dress and sealed off with elastic; it is a knockout.

However, the real excitement is in found in Valli’s short, feathered party dress and set off with a black velvet sash across the bust.

Valli did a dinner jacket with double lapels. The larger lapels are in satin and the smaller lapels are decorated in buttons. This look could be divine for daywear as well if worn with tight jeans and the pig-nosed high heels that designer created for the collection.

It was to be expected of Valli do long evening gowns and one can say that he did not disappoint expectations. He did a beautiful draped evening gown in black with pink interior. The dress’s split rises high enough up the right thigh that it is certain to turn heads.

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli