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Jackie Rogers: Chanel Model to Haute Couturiere
"I don't believe in fashion," says Jackie Rogers, flashing her famous dimpled grin, "I
believe in style."
And who could possible know more about that subject than a woman whose life exemplifies it.
Her career has run the gamut from big-band singer, Hollywood starlet, denizen of Rome's La Dolce
Vita in the company of princes and magnates, films for Felini, Chanel's favored mannequin,
successful New York model and finally, owner of an innovative Madison Avenue barbershop
boutique that set that staid street of shops on its collective ear and transformed the concept
of boutiques forever.
She was discovered, and pressed into runway action, by the most renowed couturiers of Rome,
including Simonetta and Fabiani. Her madcap lifestyle inspired Fellini to write a part for
her into his film, "8 1/2" and gave her the line of the film, "You're finished, you've
got nothing more to say."
A shopping excursion to Paris changed all that, and the direction of her life, forever.
Jackie Rogers bought her first Chanel suit ("around $600") and as she stood thre for the
first fitting, found herself thinking, "It would be nice to work here."
Upon hearing tht Chanel needed models, she quickly lined up for an interview.
"Chanel liked me, hired me on the spot and paid me top dollar," recalls Jackie Rogers.
She then left the prince and La Dolce Vita behind to pursue her dream. Her contract with
Chanel was for one year.
At the end of the period, Chanel insisted that she remain. For Jackie Rogers, one thing was
important -- that she work with Mademoiselle on the collection.
Surprisingly, Chanel agreed and Rogers remained at the House of Chanel, absorbing the style
and techniques of her mentor.
"It was the greatest experience of my life. I never realized what an effect she had on me,"
said Rogers.
But Jackie was eager to get home to begin her own career. Against Chanel's protestations, she
returned to New York, and her modeling and television work while she investigated the
fashion possibilities.
"One day I was getting my hair cut at Vidal Sasson, when my hairdresser informed me he was
cutting the hair of 250 guys a week at night!" Jackie recalls.
I said, "Great! And then suggested we get together and work out of my apartment. He'd cut
hair; I'd sell Ken Scott's incredible men's shirts. They were all the rage there in the 1960s."
It was the beginning of a revolutionary concept in merchandising, a barbershop boutique that
mushroomed into a Madison Avenue shop proudly displaying the banner, "Jackie Rogers for Men."
The first-of-its-kind, it created a whirlwind of publiciy and attracted some of the most
stellar names of the day: Peter O'Toole, Winthrop Rockefeller, Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas
and Woody Allen.
Quickly expanding on her brilliant and innovative idea, Jackie began designing fashionable men's
clothes.
"Jackie Rogers for Men" became the meeting plae of the rich and famous from both coasts and soon
the women followed.
Lee Radziwell discovered Jackie and soon brought her sister, Jackie Onassis.
Jacie's following today includes some of the most recognized women in finance, entertainment
and politics. A sampling of long-time customers list includes: Juliana Moore, Condaleeza Rice,
Roberta Flack and Courtney Love.
"I'm the only designer today who ever worked with the great Coco Chanel," says Rogers.
"From her I learned that fashion doesn't start with design. Everything comes from fabrication."
Working just as Chanel did, with the fabric, ("Chanel never sketched, I don't either."),
Jackie Rogers molds and contours the fabric until the shape emerges.
"It's like sculpting," she explains.
"Restricting a piece to its design holds back on what should, and could be developed. I
go the way the fabric goes. That involves draping cloth on a mannequin toget line and feeling.
From that point, the design develop, sometimes, spinning off into a dozen different versions."
"My clothes are always simple. I take away, rather than add," says Jackie.
Explaining that more and more women are finding they don't want their clothes wearing them,
she added, "I've always designed clothes not definable by the season of the year."
Rogers loves fabrics with texture, such as charmeuse, crepe and chiffon. Jackie Rogers'
customers are addicted to the complicated simplicity of her designs --- designs that are
complete couture, refined, soft-spoken, elegant, enigmatic, with the dash and daring of a designer
who knows he craft, and has no fear of standing on the cutting edge of style.
Click on image to read the review and view the collection.
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