PARIS, Jan 29, 2005/ FW/ --- As Paris mourns losing Helmut Lang as a designer, 29 year old Belgian Kris Van Assche, in a square minimalist fluorescent luminous room presented his debut menswear collection to a front row of fashions most elite just looking for a new darling, and after today’s performance he may have just adopted the role.

Slimane’s former assistant both at YSL for the Rive Gauche Homme collection that later transpired to Dior Homme, put on his best white adidas sneakers and demonstrated why directly out of college he managed to make such a splash on the fashion front.

Velvet and suede super luxurious jumpsuits, baggy for quintessential comfort and style are hip under tailored jackets, taking the local mechanic and aviator look to new heights before changing into flat fronted trousers that sit on hips and three piece multiple button suits.

Van Assche for his ‘Number 1’ show takes us on a journey almost backwards, going from dressed to eventual boxer short looks before turning back time and showing adaptability of his new wardrobe by sending out three silver haired cowboys dashingly dressed, striding to ‘The Boss’ Bruce Springsteen.

Pockets become functional detail not only multiple on vests like fishing jackets, but on hoods and the upper left corner of light knit V neck tops, and again in a deeper version on symmetrical looks.

Torsos are elongated via hidden plackets on shirts and details of undone ties drawn down the upper body forcing the eye to follow its path.

Deconstruction is part of the play on a backwards presentation as lapels are unstitched, as tailored pieces appear pinned to pants.

Van Assche’s urban essential collection is destined for success as this breath of fresh air hits the Parisian catwalks and proves that truckin’ logos of sexy girls on t-shirts can in fact be part of a stylish, sartorially detailed wardrobe that is for men of all ages. Limitations exist simply in the mind.

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche