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Lancetti Fall 2005
Milan Womenswear Show Fall 2005

Lancetti: When Contradictions Make Sense
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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Lancetti MILAN, Feb 22, 2005/ FW/ --- With the collection entitled ‘Provocation’ yet defined in the press notes as ‘a completely clothed woman,’ Icarius, the creative director of the house set the tone for this sensual and alluring collection that redefined the definition of a strong woman.

Opening with an ankle-length dress in black lace with a keyhole that reaches up to the navel, and thigh-high slits on the skirt, the term “provocative” was instantly established.

Then it was followed by beige suits that was so masculine, that one began to ask the question, “Where did that sexy girl go?”

And that was what Icarius wanted his audience to ask, as he sent models dressed in seemingly contradictory outfits that got the audience asking for more so that they could understand the literally “provocative” title.

Again, as the press notes said, “the key to interpret the collection is in the fabrics, creating opposing weights and balances.” And from then on, it made sense.

The beige body suit paired with the beige suede mackintosh, the lacey long-sleeved A-line dress matched with a striped knitted hooded cape, the purple fur worn over a purple taffeta pantsuit – they became a statement of counterpoints, emphasizing femininity in a very strong woman.

In today’s society where a woman is expected to multi-task, i.e., have a career and raise a family at the same time, Icarius hit a note with the contemporary woman who is a lady and a corporate executive, even a soldier at times.

So, with ethnic necklaces worn on lace or chiffon, and wearing body hugging silhouettes that accentuate the waist, the bastion of feminine looks, Lancetti mixed them with masculine capes and long coats.

The most dramatic statement, a model wearing a bhurka with a soldier’s hat; now, what do you say to that?

 

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