Pollini by Rifat Ozbek Fall 2007: The Cavalry Woman
Milano Moda Donna (Milan Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
More photos --->> | 1 | 2
MILAN, Feb 21, 2007/ FW/ --- In a season dominated by the ‘power woman’, Rifat Ozbek revisited World War I finding inspiration from the Asburg cavalry and translated its uniform into contemporary sportswear with softer lines and feminine silhouettes.
The opening was mysterious – the house lights turned dim, the model’s face covered with a hat and a high standing collar trimmed with fur. The parka was silvery polypropylene with hidden plackets and the sleeves and hem edged with ribbed knits.
The inspiration might come from the 20th century, but the rendition is modern and contemporary! And that set the tone for the whole collection wherein black, metallic silver and beige are the basic palette accentuated by colorful berets designed specially for Pollini by Philip Treacy.
Shift mini dresses in silver and black all showed allusion to the military uniform, from the silver grommets to the buttons and camouflage motifs which Ozbek called “déco-flage” and “camo-floral”.
Tops are voluminous but the trousers and shorts are cut slim; dresses are minimalistic, except for armor embroidery and military braids adornments.
Still, it was the outerwear that stood out. Outercoats in three-quarter and half sleeves were paired with fur arm warmers. The windbreaker was given a high collar and oversized puff sleeves with ribbed knits at the wrists and hem. The pea coat became a double-breasted jacket trimmed with fur on the neck, wrists and hemline.
But this collection is not just about clothes alone. Bags made from nappa, calf and patent leather were oversized. Shoes and boots were embellished with stud appliqué. The Pollini eyewear with its frame narrow in a wrap-around style was also present.
|