Vasseur-Esquivel: Ethereal & Seductive
By Mari Davis
Photos by: Javier Mateo
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DALLAS, Nov 17, 2003/ FW/ --- Fashion’s latest duo, Vasseur-Esquivel continued to capture the interest of the fashion community with their delectable Spring 2004 collection shown last September in New York.
As their show notes stated, the collection was “influenced by the legendary haute-couture designer Madeleine Vionnet and the indelible imprint she left on modern fashion."
For the fashion trivia fans – Madeleine Vionnet is regarded as the inventor of the “bias cut” in 1922.
The bias cut, which was considered revolutionary during that time, forces the fabric to cling to the body and move with it, which created Madeleine Vionnet ‘s trademark look of draped, form-conscious clothing.
As fashion history goes, during the 1930s, many of Madeleine Vionnet’s customers were wealthy Argentineans, who made special trips to her Parisian boutique.
Gaba Esquivel hails from Argentina and Thomas Vasseur is a native Parisian. Put two and two together and we have a light and elegant collection inspired by Madeleine Vionnet and her chic Argentinean clientele.
The opening garment – flesh tone transparent blouse paired with a leather mini and a silk jacket that also looked like a train from the front set the tone of the collection – seductive and alluring.
Taking a cue from Madeleine Vionnet, the design duo showed their mastery of draping and while doing so captured the most beautiful aspects of the classic female aesthetic – shape and movement.
Maria Carla in a blue mini paired with bustier-inspired top with the front slit so high, it reached the navel looked like a femme fatale from the 1930s except for her 1980s inspired tousled hair.
Such is the depth of how much Vasseur-Esquivel captured the essence of the 1930s era.
And due to their masterful execution, the collection did not look passé. In fact, it looked contemporary and modern, another strength of the design duo.
And like Madame Vionnet’s wont, there was hardly any jewelry or adornment worn. But who needs adornment when the clothes are as alluring and sensual as they are!
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