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Paris Gastronomy: La Tour d'Argent Languishes and Joël Robuchon Returns
By: Timothy Hagy

PARIS, Apr 24, 2003/ FW/ --- Famed Parisian restaurant, La Tour d'Argent, is about to change hands with the imminent retirement of Claude Terrail. At age 85, the formidable restaurateur, noted for his custom made Saville row suits and his omnipresent boutonnière, has announced his intention of handing over the reins to his 22-year-old son André. Monsieur Terrail adds that "all of my life, I've worked to create beauty, charm, and the good life". The passing of the torch will be celebrated by 140 guests, and the highlight: the serving of the millionth pressed duck.

The restaurant's signature dish "pressed duck" has been on the menu since around 1890, and each client has been given a card bearing the bird's number. In 1900, Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia consumed number 6,0489, and on May 16, 1948, Queen Elizabeth dined on number 185,387. An anonymous restaurant critic (who recommended the extensive wine cellar above the food) was given a charred object with the singed number 877,740 in 1998.

La Tour d'Argent is among the oldest eateries in Paris, with menus encased in silver, an opulent décor, and windows displaying a panoramic view of Notre Dame. Tarnish, however, has accumulated on the restaurant's argentine image with the passing of time, and with the subsequent loss of stars in the famed Michelin Guide. Today, La Tour d'Argent has began to suffer from cancelled reservations, due in part to the war with Iraq and the subsequent dearth of Asian and American tourists.

Meanwhile, after seven years of absence, one of the most famous of all French chefs, Joël Robuchon, is set to open "L'atelier de Joël Robuchon" the beginning of May in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. His previous 3 star restaurant (the highest award given by the Michelin Guide) was taken over by Alain Ducasse.

This time around, the master chef has chosen to avoid the concept of haute cuisine, explaining "the cooking will be simple but with exceptional products." The concept of this new adventure will be closer to a convivial bistro where clients will be seated around a large counter, with a view of the kitchen.

51% of the restaurant will be owned by Joël Robuchon, three chefs and a sommelier or "wine steward". Theodore Margellos, Greek billionaire, who has already invested in several French establishments, will hold the remaining 49%. The new restaurant is planned as an archetype, a concept soon to be exported to the United States and Japan.

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