Antonio Marras: Counterpoints
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci

MILAN, Feb 28, 2004/ FW/ --- It’s romantic, nostalgic and a dream. No, it’s cold, harsh and very real.

Glittering star dust and the sickly feeling of growing old and being forgotten, fading beauty of a once fairy tale diva, a star full of remorseful memories of materialistic ideals, needing to make a fuss, detested by all who surround her, in her unhappiness at least she will always be remembered.

From the invitation, a black and white photograph bathed in silver glitter and put into a small whiskey bottle, one knew it was to be a special show, yet another demonstration of the multi layers that make up Marras’s uniqueness and ability to perfect and transform his designs into personae.

Petticoats and lace, feathers and sheer fabrics in a colour scheme of contrasting blacks and whites, rose diversity, gold, silver and antique greens, a fall 2004/05 of forget me not picture playing cards.

Glitter rained down on the first diva dressed in a full-length silk evening gown in off white layers complete with feathers and crystals. Movie stills of the last Italian diva of silent film, Rina De Liguoro.

Dramatic and beautiful his use of knitwear and custom asymmetry like the mini bolero over a halter necklace top. Layers are essential and volume is created through tucking and gathers in the back of jackets, sleeves and skirts that are cut on the cross with flaring skirts.

1920’s glamour as he uses exquisite beading around necklines and off the shoulder, and while his women are anything but masculine, there is a hint of androgyny in tailored Charlie Chaplin trousers and sleeves that are too long.

Little jackets sit on hips where they flare slightly and dresses are placed over pants, bags are at times maxi and blanket cardigans hang off shoulders, rose appliqué on knit along with the vintage coats make up details for the Marras wardrobe.

Dramatic violins, light bulbs and poetry. This is an exceptional collection that finishes as a living photograph from an old film where tears are inevitable in a rush of beautiful emotions.

Antonio Marras debuts in Paris for Kenzo later this month.

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras

Antonio Marras