PARIS, Mar 2, 2006/ FW/ --- With the Anglo-Brazilian husband and wife team of Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro taking a break from designing their eponymous collection while they look to restructure the company, they have had a little more time on their hands recently to devote themselves wholeheartedly to Cacharel and, if this is the result, all at the French fashion house must be secretly hoping that the pair don’t find a suitable investor just yet.

In a collection dominated by simple, pretty dresses the tone was almost indiscernibly more grown-up; less girly and somehow more sophisticated. This was attempted with references to glamour such as a leopard skin coat, but achieved more successfully in the subtle use of a more sombre palette, more mature cut, and styling details such as elegant elbow length gloves of suede or leather.

The dresses often took botanical or floral motifs and set them over backgrounds of brown or faded yellow. Cut to skim the body rather than hug it, and to just above the knee, interest was added to these straightforward robes with, for example, unassuming chains that defined the collar of a high neckline. With a little extra volume in the sleeve, or imperceptibly down the arch of the back, these silhouettes hinted and teased as to the form of the body.

Apart from the dresses – although they really did overwhelm all else through sheer weight of numbers – we saw uncomplicated basics such as lattice cable knit V-neck pulls set with plain grey mid-length woollen tube skirts which moulded themselves to the hips. With tone-on-tone tights and ladylike gloves, all seemed to suggest the relaxed sophistication of a woman who knows what she wants but doesn’t feel the need to let everybody else know what it is exactly just yet.

Elsewhere were presented printed blouses with high ruffle collars and chiffon sleeves, peach silk camisoles under cropped fur lined jackets and slouchy anthracite trousers.

Like many others, it seems that the design team at Cacharel can’t make up its mind about shorts. In the doubt, they sent out a couple - probably to see the reaction of buyers. So we got a knee length example in a beige plaid and a more urban, shorter pair in grey flannel.

It seems then that the imaginary muse of Cacharel is maturing and moving on, up to another level.

Cacharel

Cacharel

Cacharel

Cacharel