NEW YORK, Feb 15, 2002/ FWD/ --- In a moment that has seen the retirement of Yves Saint Laurent, fashion's most influential designer and the modern master of androgyny, it was refreshing to attend Carolina Herrera's fall 2002 show, with its heightened emphasis on manly tailoring and silhouette.

Herrera remains the classiest of designers, but this season she gave her designs a timely twist with a series of sleek pant suits that recalled Saint Laurent, albeit with her own distinctly different cut.

Carolina's two- and three-piece suits came with elephantine flares, figure-hugging vests and neat one-button jackets.

In powder silk faille, herringbone wool, plaid or ivory silk they all looked great.

Staged before an audience of barely 200 in the designer's Seventh Avenue headquarters, the event also captured this season's current obsession with more intimate presentations.

The collection was definitely targeted, in both style and price, at the very well-heeled. But the fact of the matter is that most women would readily wear Carolina's clothes if they could only afford them.

Though quintessentially of the New World, Herrera is capable of dazzling couture touches worthy of a Paris house.

To site just two examples, she sent out a superb belted lamb coat stenciled to make it look like an exotic wildcat fur and a platinum Art Deco suit that dazzled.

"Call that in," yelped one national magazine editor as that passed by.

Perhaps not everything worked, like three capes partly buttoned up around the torso, which looked rather unrealistic.

But that's a small quibble in another elegantly assured show.

Impeccable as ever Herrera appeared, took a small bow and retired quietly back stage.

Incidentally, besides being a polished creator, Carolina has the best walk of any designer in the business.

Did someone say great role model?

Carolina Herrera Fashion

Carolina Herrera Fashion

Carolina Herrera Fashion