MILAN, Jan 16, 2006/ FW/ --- Roberto Cavalli is a man fond of telling anyone who will listen that he is a Scorpio, and follows it up with a hearty laugh. What he means by this is that he understands seduction and sexuality more than the average guy.

If you could bottle sexuality Cavalli would make enough from it to be able to give up designing clothes altogether. This would be a shame however as, in a fashion world so often defined by gay men, his particular vision comes as a refreshing change.

With the set including red velvet curtains, ornate chaise-lounges and Persian rugs, we find ourselves in a 17th century Viennese parlor, although, this being Cavalli, boudoir might be nearer the mark.

Seduction can take many forms however, and the ambiance reflected the fascination with which the society of Mozart viewed the sensuality and exoticism of the Orient. These are terms that lend themselves uneasily to describing jeans however and so the designer’s customary denim was absent while, opulence and luxury being the key words, what we did get was lacquered silk, mink and beautifully embroidered oriental motifs.

The Japanese theme of the collection was clear with unstructured kimono style wrap shirts in evidence: voluminous with flared sleeves, when combined with fitted leather biker pants, the overall effect was one of relaxed sophistication combining modernity with eastern refinement.

Echoes of the kimono were also witnessed in the cut of the suits and tuxedos which, over leopard print or red lacquered shirts, tell you all you need to know about this show: finesse juxtaposed with the base animal instinct.

Military elements were to be found also (when aren’t they in menswear?) in a very fine slim line jacket with epaulettes and officier collar. A mention needs to go also to the washed leather bomber jacket which, with it’s shaved mink collar was the best example so far of a model incorporated into many shows this season.

Elsewhere the traditional Japanese motif of the serpent was transferred onto pieces in embroidered sequin and this reflected perfectly the underlying ethos of Cavalli: if you crave the limelight you will be the centre of attention, but it’s definitely not for the faint hearted!

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli