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Roberto Cavalli: Cavalli Heads Further West
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Jun 24, 2002/FWD/ --- Roberto Cavalli's never ending obsession with the Wild West and
American culture took new expression Monday in Milan with a powerfully passionate collection
inspired by Indian country.
The only thing missing were the smoke signals.
Set before a truly massive backdrop of a patchwork teepee, the show kicked off with a
high-energy blast of rockabilly before moving on to its main look: natty Navaho guys.
But though bursting with references to the Four Corners, the collection's edgy spirit and
technical innovation kept it from falling into the hackneyed "retro" category.
Take Cavalli's leathers, which for spring/summer 2003 feature some great shrunken hides.
"The whole idea is that you can throw them in the washing machine and then when you put them
on, they mold into your own shape," Cavalli's wife and design partner, Eva, told FWD backstage
after the show.
Other leather looks were printed with wacky paisley designs reminiscent of the Dodge City
gunfights.
Jeans came with Mexican embroidery, cable sweaters in Santa Fe colors, pants printed with
Indian ceremonial motifs.
Curly-haired models swung by on the huge wooden catwalk with Apache blankets thrown over
their shoulders, and intricately embellished boots on their feet.
Think Marlon Brando in "One-Eyed Jacks" meets Lenny Kravitz, and you're in the right territory.
The biggest applause of the day went to rocker Terence Trent D'Arby, who sauntered out like a
pistolero from a Sam Peckinpah classic western.
For his finale, Cavalli unleashed a squadron of desperados in matching cotton pants and shirts.
Never a designer for the tame, his collection this season is more for the outlaw -- picture
the perfectly put together bandit.
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