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A Return to Classic Cerruti
By J.J. Martin
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Jan 13, 2003 /FWD/ --- The house of Cerruti has had its fair share of shake-ups
in the past two years.
First there was the partial sale of the company by founder Nino Cerruti to Italian holding
company FinPart, which ultimately led to the bitter departure of the venerable designer
from his own label.
And then there was a brief marriage with fashion iconoclast Roberto Menichetti,
who arrived with re-launch dreams but departed in a cloud of controversy less than a year later.
With the latest development at the house it seems that Cerruti may have finally found
its long-awaited balance, with the arrival of creative director Istvan Francer.
The soft-spoken Yugoslavian designer, who staged his first menswear show for the Italian
label Monday, showed he knows what Cerruti's 35 year history is all about and has a clear
idea where to take it.
The creative director remarked after the show that, "Cerruti was a master of classics and
was known for revamping those classic."
Humbly, he added, "I'm just trying to make it more modern. That's what I do."
So on top of the predictable double breasted looks and classic tailoring for which
Cerruti is renowned, came a new flavor, seasoned with riding looks and a splash of
retro London that indicated that changes are afoot.
The young dandies in long overcoats and high boots worn over constructed riding pants
paid homage to the famous Italian writer Gabrielle D'Annuncio, himself a turn of the
century stylish and intellectual man about town.
Particularly noteworthy were the chic waistcoats done in a variety of fabrics and color,
which covered crisp pinstripe shirts.
Francer morphed the look with top hats and a few bold, wide striped suits and plaid car
coats which were plucked right from Carnaby Street in the 60s.
The pieces, which looked fresh and fun, will work for Cerruti.
But Francer, together with designer Adrien Smith (who joined the creative director on
stage for a final bow) played the rest of the show safe, holding on tight to Cerruti
tradition in several looks, most notably the evening wear which stayed course with the
house's classic heritage.
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