Chloe -- Philo Puts On Beautiful Birthday Bash
By Godfrey Deeny
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Mar 13, 2003/ FWD/ --- The invitation featured the star-spangled naked torso of a hot dancer from the carnival of Rio, but this was a very French collection from the house of Chloe, as it celebrates its half century this year.
Opening with a rap version of David Bowie's "Fame," which features the repeated line "It's your birthday," the collection was staged on an elevated catwalk evoking a great late-night club.
Designer Phoebe Philo was determined to paint the town red with this collection - curvy ra-ra culottes, dresses with huge animal prints and a pair of great gold sequin and chain dresses that screamed "let's party!" But they all had an indelibly French touch, whether it was green feathers that sprouted from the arms of bomber jackets or the delicate fabric roses embroidered onto tops.
Above all, the collection was the expression of a non-French designer who clearly delights in the resources Paris provides in abundance to make great fashion. She wasn't afraid to mix in British elements, sending out Angela Lindvall in a Gordon in Khartoum coat. But even a '60s London look, like the Biba faded floral dresses, looked very Chloe, once Philo had ruched it up and paired it with a snazzy leather bomber jacket.
Besides having a sure eye - Philo styles her own shows - she's a very fine tailor. Her cutting was just so in the flared, high-waisted pants, rather mannish suits, and layered skirts that hung impeccably.
And the accessories - chunky leather and reptile skin bags with buckled and steel straps, plus a series of cool pendants of anchors and stone - all worked perfectly with the clothes or footwear. Topped by boots that reached practically to Karolina Kurkova's hips, the show had a series of great boots -- few of them below the knee - with ties, buckles, laces and fancy trim.
Sometimes the coloring was a bit off-kilter, as turquoise, orange and violet fought for supremacy over black. But this was a small criticism of probably Philo's best show since taking over sole control of Chloe's design. Backstage, they queued up to praise the designer, who modestly kept inquiring, "did you like it?" The answer: You betcha.
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