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Costume National Fall 2005: A Rare Delicacy
Paris Pręt-á-Porter Fall 2005
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Javier Mateo
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Costume National PARIS, March 1, 2005/ FW/ – She is mysterious, ultimately free and highly sophisticated, the Costume National lady for fall winter 2005/06 is born of folk spirit and rare delicacy like feminine icon Marianne Faithful.

In a warehouse on the 1st March in Paris where winter seems to be just getting started rather than blossoming into spring, it was a good idea to serve hot tea to icicle chattering guests, but to Costume’s due credit, they were assured that the space would be heated properly by Showtime, unfortunately technical hiccups happen and the heat didn’t.

Freezing and frostbite aside, Ennio Capasa transformed the traveling folk gypsy into contemporary sophisticated ladies by taking classical looks from the magic of the 1970’s and successfully spinning them into an alluringly sensual wardrobe.

Capasa’s attention to detail and sartorial skill seem to be never ending as he panels the most fragile of lace with soft jersey, luxurious fur and python with mink and feather trim as well as hand woven macramé with subtle sparkles for twinkles of light.

In a predominantly dark palette of cocoa, black and blues, flashes of colored prints and paisley add to the romantic feminism that underlies the collection.

Lacing works it way up the torso, little buttons follow long slender legs on trousers and tassels hang from the back of delicious discolored boots in this journey that combines practicality and style.

Sleeves flow and dance in the breeze along with flared high waisted pants and empire line dresses. Skirts are very long and reflect the V necked physical dresses that hug the body.

Evenings sparkle in multicolored paillettes under the spotlight of the hottest red carpets where the east meets west, ‘free from any reference to geography or history’ as Capasa says in the press notes.

Ennio Capasa creates new icons in femininity where women ‘are symbols of freedom and spontaneity but who are at the same time hyper-sophisticated…’

 

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